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  1. #51

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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    There was no Nikon F1. It was simply the Nikon F.
    We know. I call it the Nikon F1 also. When spoken aloud, just saying "F" sounds odd to me (reminds me of one of my favorite bands, the Eels. Except there's no "the", their official name is just Eels. Diehard fans insist that they should never be called "the Eels", just "Eels", even though it ruins everyone's grammar and sounds idiotic).

    Canon really should have named the F-1 something else. I blame them for any potential confusion.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchwinnParamount View Post
    Ok, Mr. Pedantic.
    Not pedantic to correct a substantial inaccuracy. Write to clarify, not confuse. What if someone reading this is just getting into film photography and is trying to learn about different makes and models of cameras? I figured you didn't know any better. If you did know better, why do it? What's so difficult about using the correct designation, especially when your incorrect usage can lead to confusion with a very similar, vocally identical, correct designation in the same sentence? As it was, you made your meaning depend unnecessarily on hyphens being in the right places, when text is increasingly being read on small screens.

    If there were no F-1, I wouldn't care so much if you called the Nikon F an F1. Either would still be unique to that model.

    Earlier today, I did not have time to correct your original post, in which you wrote "F-1n" instead of "F-1N" or "New F-1", but I figured someone would, which they did. It was confusing to anyone who knows the different models, thinking at first you meant one, then figuring out from specifics in the description that you meant another. After you called the Nikon an F1, I figured you didn't know your designations very well. If you know them, use them. Why must a reader need to have specific knowledge in order to figure out which F-1 you're talking about?
    Everyone makes typos or poorly constructs sentences at times, and context must be used to understand the meaning. But if you just don't want to bother to be clear, don't criticize people who attempt to clarify it.

    If you had just responded to my post with something like,"Yes I know, it's just what I call it", I would have let it go. But you go accusing me of being pedantic, you get full chapter and verse.
    Look at my posting history and see if I'm pedantic.
    Remember Q.G.? Now HE was pedantic.
    Last edited by lxdude; 01-05-2014 at 04:16 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by LJSLATER View Post
    We know. I call it the Nikon F1 also. When spoken aloud, just saying "F" sounds odd to me (reminds me of one of my favorite bands, the Eels. Except there's no "the", their official name is just Eels. Diehard fans insist that they should never be called "the Eels", just "Eels", even though it ruins everyone's grammar and sounds idiotic).
    Same thing with the band Eagles, usually called The Eagles. But it doesn't really carry over. Adding the definite article "The" doesn't substantially change their name or lead to any confusion, and it sounds right because the name is a plural. On the other hand, Mr. SchwinnParamount stated the name of a camera model that never existed, in paragraphs in which he directly compared it to an actual camera with a name which is almost identical. If it were a spoken conversation, it would have gotten very confusing very quickly.

    Canon really should have named the F-1 something else.
    I agree. After F-1, where could they go? Then the revised version got called the F-1n and the next version F-1N. Sheesh.
    Last edited by lxdude; 01-05-2014 at 04:23 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by benjiboy View Post
    I believe that Canon didn't provide an A.E lock on the New F1 because it's a professional camera and they expect the users to know enough about exposure to use the exposure override, whereas the consumer grade A series provide the facility.
    In addition - instead of an A.E lock Canon provide the user with the option of fitting the F1N with the correct focusing screen either the standard centre weighted "A", the 9 % "P" partial, or the 3% "S" spot screen to give you the right metering pattern sensitivity for the subject in hand.
    The F1N's Silicon cell light meter is in the left side of the camera body rather than the prism finders because Canon experimented as part of their ten year development project for the New F1, and found that it supplied more accurate exposures.
    Last edited by benjiboy; 01-05-2014 at 09:51 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Ben

  5. #55

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    Benjiboy, I disagree with you on two points. Exposure lock is not an amateur feature. It is a useful one. If you are photographing snails then you have plenty of time to make adjustments. With any faster moving subjects exposure lock is still a great convenience. Changing the metering pattern is not a replacement for exposure lock. If I am metering off of a plain white subject and I want the subject to look white in the final image then it doesn't matter what metering pattern I use. If I don't add some exposure the white subject will look gray in the final image. Limited area and spot metering can be very useful but only if you know what to point it at. Not every scene has a convenient mid tone to meter off of so some judgment will always be required. The cameras we are talking about were not nearly sophisticated enough that you could point them at any subject and rely on the meter's results in every case and without adjustment. Today people who use digital cameras have HDR and layers and many other tools to even out or correct exposure. Film cameras from the 1970s and 1980s did not offer these possibilities. When I use a camera like a Minolta X-700 I use exposure lock most often when there is backlighting is present. I will tilt the camera down, lock my reading, tilt back up and shoot. I am not against the F-1N. For me it doesn't have so many advantages over the older F-1 and F-1n models. When it comes to the Nikon F2, in most cases I prefer to use other Nikon models: Nikkormat FTN/FT2/FT3, FE, FE2, N2000, N2020 (very good as a maual focus camera), N90S/F90X (I have one of each). What I like most about the F2 is that the fnder has no distortion at the edges.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by dynachrome View Post
    Benjiboy, I disagree with you on two points. Exposure lock is not an amateur feature. It is a useful one. If you are photographing snails then you have plenty of time to make adjustments. With any faster moving subjects exposure lock is still a great convenience. Changing the metering pattern is not a replacement for exposure lock. If I am metering off of a plain white subject and I want the subject to look white in the final image then it doesn't matter what metering pattern I use. If I don't add some exposure the white subject will look gray in the final image. Limited area and spot metering can be very useful but . Not every scene has a convenient mid tone to meter off of so some judgment will always be required. The cameras we are talking about were not nearly sophisticated enough that you could point them at any subject and rely on the meter's results in every case and without adjustment. Today people who use digital cameras have HDR and layers and many other tools to even out or correct exposure. Film cameras from the 1970s and 1980s did not offer these possibilities. When I use a camera like a Minolta X-700 I use exposure lock most often when there is backlighting is present. I will tilt the camera down, lock my reading, tilt back up and shoot. I am not against the F-1N. For me it doesn't have so many advantages over the older F-1 and F-1n models. When it comes to the Nikon F2, in most cases I prefer to use other Nikon models: Nikkormat FTN/FT2/FT3, FE, FE2, N2000, N2020 (very good as a maual focus camera), N90S/F90X (I have one of each). What I like most about the F2 is that the fnder has no distortion at the edges.
    To disagree is your prerogative, all I can say is I've had 2 of the 3 F1N's I own (I bought the last one last year), for more than 25 years and have never missed it having an A.E. lock.
    Ben

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    That holds true for AI and later lenses only, pre AI lenses will damage the aperture coupling on many later bodies if yout try to mount them.
    All my lens work on all bodies, the older ones I had converted. Can you do the same with Canon. No.
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac View Post
    Pick up a gallon of milk with a 4lr44 battery.
    I buy the silver oxide (better for cameras) in bulk from sr44.com. Cheaper than the store by far and you can just stack them to make a 4 unit pack.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    Not pedantic to correct a substantial inaccuracy. .
    Sheesh, give me a break will you? I doubt anyone on this thread except yourself was confused when I typed "F1" and meant "F".

  10. #60

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    Sighhh... Such a pity I have never as much as held the Canon in my hand... I could then honestly say each of my F2s was way better...




 

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