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  1. #61
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    Still available?

    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    I buy the silver oxide (better for cameras) in bulk from sr44.com. Cheaper than the store by far and you can just stack them to make a 4 unit pack.
    I thought they were outlawed?
    “We are buried beneath the weight of information, which is being confused with knowledge; quantity is being confused with abundance and wealth with happiness.
    We are monkeys with money and guns.”

    ― Tom Waits

  2. #62

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac View Post
    I thought they were outlawed?
    No, the mercury 1.35V cells were halted, for reason of mercury. PX625 was the biggie of its day.
    On another matter, I think the Nikon F2 had a fit-and-feel of being the highest quality 35 ever made. Certainly the finest Japan ever put out. Only the Germans could do better work, but I'm not sure they could have topped the F2.
    That said, I've reached an age in life where the Nikkormat is the most sensible, capable 35, for a few reasons the F2 could not beat or even feature.

  3. #63
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    Wow. Thanks for enlightening me. I got mercury batteries confused with silver oxide batteries. I have an old Minolta SRT that needs one of those px625 batteries.
    “We are buried beneath the weight of information, which is being confused with knowledge; quantity is being confused with abundance and wealth with happiness.
    We are monkeys with money and guns.”

    ― Tom Waits

  4. #64

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    Put in 357's, and make a little doughnut spacer out of a strip of paper and some white glue. Set your meter to 1/3 stop higher ASA for starters. The 357 was the only battery to give 50% or greater flat output curve comparison to the 625. Do not use modern 625 alkalines. Their discharge curve is horrendous. You never pin down an ASA on them.

  5. #65

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Put in 357's, and make a little doughnut spacer out of a strip of paper and some white glue. Set your meter to 1/3 stop higher ASA for starters. The 357 was the only battery to give 50% or greater flat output curve comparison to the 625. Do not use modern 625 alkalines. Their discharge curve is horrendous. You never pin down an ASA on them.
    Correction: set to 1/3 stop lower ASA when 357 is new. Set to box speed after 2 months average use. From then on the battery holds flat until falling off a cliff after 1/2 the expected original lifetime of the mercury PX625. Keep this in mind and you wont be fishing in the dark for a film speed. Batteries tend toward the underexposure side when new, and over exposure as they age. The PX625 mercury could hold flat all its life. Silver is a fair to middling runner-up to mercury. The other technologies are no better than alkaline on that count, which is unfit for meter use.

  6. #66
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    The other technologies are no better than alkaline on that count, which is unfit for meter use.
    Unless the meter is not dependent on specific voltage for accuracy, like the Pentaxes with the bridge circuit.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  7. #67

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    The Nikon is better because you can put a Leica R lens on it w/ a lens mount adapter. With the Canon, you have to put the Nikon mount on the Leica lens, then use the Canon FD to Nikon adapter in back of that. A little too fiddeley for my tastes. On the other hand, you can spend $40 for two adapters and use Nikon AND M42 lenses on your Canon, so there's that. Gives you an amazing selection of great glass to shoot.

    I prefer shooting the Nikons for a lot of reasons, but both are fine, classic SLRs.

  8. #68
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    Canon F1 is by far better than the Nikon F2. It is more reliable. I have two Nikon F2 Photomic with the hell expensive DP2 finders with one of them needing calibration and the other not working at all. On the Canon you just put the lens on it and you are ready to go, while on the Photomic you need to set the finder and the lens on 5.6 then set the lens at maximum aperture and provide that feedback to the finder.
    Also, most of the Nikon F2 develop problems with the slow speeds.
    The only plus that I could count on the Nikon F2 is that for the meter it does fine with 1.5V button cells. Nothing more.

  9. #69
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    Suffice it to say I had 2 Nikon F 2 Photomic's and now have 3 Canon F1N A.E's and after using the F1's for more than 25 years wouldn't go back to the F2' s at any price, because I.M.O the F1N is much more sophisticated than the F2, and technically about two generations ahead of the Nikons.
    Last edited by benjiboy; 01-07-2014 at 05:35 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Ben

  10. #70
    clayne's Avatar
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    The F-1n came out in 76 and the New F-1 in 81, the Nikon F2 came out in 71, so the F-1n/New had quite a bit of time to get "sophisticated."

    I think the F-1 is a fine camera, but I don't own Canon FD gear, hence my use of Nikon and other systems. I think the F2 is probably close to the perfect camera, awesome build, etc. for that time and I'll use one any day of the week without a thought. It's probably more accurate to compare the F-1n and New F-1 to the Nikon F3, rather than the F2. Honestly though, why even put them into a comparison test?
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah



 

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