It couldn't be any more difficult than doing exactly that, or so I thought until I read this thread.
Originally Posted by R.Gould
Meter through B&W Filters
There was a simple formula on a similar thread recently, now I can't remember... Bill, was it...
ASA / filter factor # = new EI?
Like 100 ASA with yellow filter (factor 2) is 100/2= EI 50?
So 100/red (5) = EI 20?
Is that right?
I seem to be in the minority camp here as I always metered through filters (when doing landscape work - I rarely ever use filters today). However, this is using a Weston V meter which responds to colours very much like film. I have always found filter factors to be unreliable as they do not account for dominant colour of light or colours within the scene. For example, when metering dark shadows to determine ZoneIII there is often a lot of blue light and the exposure compensation is often more than 3 stops.
I am aware that earlier in-camera meters had spectral sensitivity problems and do not know how your meter responds and how you meter.
I would be interested in what other photographers approach is.
The problem is the spectral sensitivity of CdS cells and TTL metering - you need to know what you are doing.
Taking the battery out of the OM1 is easier I might needle follow rather then push the button.
The rest of us can work around non average sceanes any way we chose.
If you're finding photography straightforward then you're clearly doing it all wrong
Originally Posted by 250swb
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"If you're finding photography straightforward then you're clearly doing it all wrong"
I will assume this is satire, and funny satire at that. All you'll ever need to know on this subject is stated concisely and clearly by R. Gould (and thank you for that post). If you will just commit this to memory or jot it down somewhere, you can then adjust your in camera meter to agree w/ this, and extrapolate the different ISO films from the 400 base. But if you did that, then we couldn't argue about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.
It probably was satire and quite risible, but true if you want shots 'like' Ansells, he employed a zone system and quaint developers...
Originally Posted by momus
But R Gould post wont (always) work with a CdS meter camera with a meter cell behind the filter e.g. lots of the early range finders and almost all early SLR, It is important not to 'set up' beginners with a new film camera and a yellow filter. It is ok with a silicon cell behind the filter, camera except you don't adjust the ISO at all!
If you don't understand that, please read momus' post again, If I use a filter I remove the battery from my 'post' cell metering cameras first... and use my Weston as RGould suggests, note YMMV
Lots of our kids are moving from lomos to metal cameras and need basic training that does not occur in a DSLR course in college...
That's O.K, as long as you don't forget to reset the compensation factor when you remove or change the filter, I find it a better method with my Sekonic L358 to apply the filter factor after taking the meter reading easy, and you can't forget to reset the meter.
Originally Posted by lhalcong
well, I wouldn't dignify it with the epithet 'satire' but, yes, to be clear, it was intended to be humorous.
Originally Posted by momus
Same for me with Minolta and Nikon through the lens meters. According to others I must not have enough experience with this since I have been doing it this way since the 1970's.
Originally Posted by brian steinberger
Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.