Blocked and reported. My first one.
Glued screws come off if :
- have perfect fit, perfect tip high quality screwdriver
- have patience
Strong advice: don't use supermarket kit screwdrivers, swiss army knife or other fancy tool. Use only proven industrial tool.
Apply increasing force and keep the screw in tension, even 5-10 minutes if it is necessary. Press the screwdriver down on the screw, if the screwdriver slips for shure another attempt will fail as the head of the screw get damaged .
The glue under that force will start to develop microcracks and finally come off.
If you are unsure about a screw is better to take a break.. one hour, one day...
Never need to cut a focus / zoom rubber ring, just patience. I don't find ANY rubber glued from the factory, only after amateur repairs.
I envision a screw removing jig somewhat in the style of a drill-press, where the piece is locked into a jig at the base, and the bit and screwdriver is cranked down to apply downward force to keep the screwdriver head from slipping, while the torque motor begins the counter-clockwise pressure. Wonder if such a thing exists, other than the re-adaptation of an actual drill press.
I just now sent an e-mail to Sean, reporting myself and submitting my name for banning for my ":racial offense". There are a number of people in America today sick to death of the Liberal Left and their militant thought police tactics, ambushing unsuspecting "offenders" to the Public Political Correctness.
So, if banned, I will accept it and say goodbye to my photographic friends with gratitude to what you have taught me in my time here, and I hope I've at least given something worthwhile back to pull my weight.
If I want to be insulted by militant Lib whackos, I can read Yahoo News, or watch any of the crap in America being passed off as "news", or listen to the nutcase drivel of their politicians. Pig, indeed.
H Thomas Finley III
I r a political moderate.
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Yes the mounting flange screws are glued in at the factory, and the suggested method is to heat the screw to soften the glue, donno if that works, my soldering is not hot enough.
But the last lens I relubed a type 2 series E 5 cm /1.8 was easy.
rubber glove doughnut zinc ointment box for nameplate
three screws after removing nail varnish seal
unscrew both heliciod
reassemble &thread three screws
set infinity tighten three screws
replace name plate
Doing it again 20 mins
Actual time 8 hours!
The actual time cause I deliberately, to minimise wear clearances, used different pair of heliciod starts, not recommended you try that, cause they are paired with this lens. Best to mark them with file...
Sneakily I did not remove the mounting flange instead using large darning needle to realign the lens cell keys with the mount keyways. Needs three hands, and takes 15 of 20 mins.
I've looked at the rubber rungs on my AI lenses and they should lift off though mine may not be factory fitted.
Fungus is best treated with ladies hand cream, it has a special ingredient! Apply with clean finger and remove with cotton waste.
But Im stuck with a lens ring on an EGerman lens which has penned threads, I've drilled out the area but the ring still won't move. Im thinking how to do.
That is EXACTLY why I just pay the small amount it costs to have a professional repair shop do that work for me.
Originally Posted by Tom1956
Before you go, Tom.. I understand how you reported yourself, please help me understand how you blocked yourself from yourself. I didn't know one could put themself on their own ignore list.
Originally Posted by Tom1956
Tom, did you go off your meds?
It may be possible that in reading many of your past posts some people may have thought you knew
everything and wouldn't appreciate any help offered.
Xmas generally has it right though, heating the screw should break down the glue.
None of which helps the OP getting to his fungal problem besides Xmas. Remove the decorator
plate, unscrew three screws and invert the lens. The front group should just drop out.
Usually fungus is inside the front and/or rear groups so should both be accessible without taking the
lens mount off.
BTW Tom, you're the one bitching about politics and both parties have gone overboard on PC.
Heavily sedated for your protection.
Don't know about that if you call me a Brit for British id assume it was an abbreviation it also might be prejorative but you would need to use context for that.
Originally Posted by snapguy
Calling my exposure meter a crap Brit meter is opinion.
Some equipment is difficult to maintain eg using glue as Nikon have done is bad form in my book the more normal thing to do is use a thread sealant, designed to secure screws and other threaded fasteners.
You seem to compare Tom with 'small boys' and 'mean spirited urchins' is that intentional?