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  1. #11

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    I envision a screw removing jig somewhat in the style of a drill-press, where the piece is locked into a jig at the base, and the bit and screwdriver is cranked down to apply downward force to keep the screwdriver head from slipping, while the torque motor begins the counter-clockwise pressure. Wonder if such a thing exists, other than the re-adaptation of an actual drill press.

  2. #12

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    I just now sent an e-mail to Sean, reporting myself and submitting my name for banning for my ":racial offense". There are a number of people in America today sick to death of the Liberal Left and their militant thought police tactics, ambushing unsuspecting "offenders" to the Public Political Correctness.
    So, if banned, I will accept it and say goodbye to my photographic friends with gratitude to what you have taught me in my time here, and I hope I've at least given something worthwhile back to pull my weight.
    If I want to be insulted by militant Lib whackos, I can read Yahoo News, or watch any of the crap in America being passed off as "news", or listen to the nutcase drivel of their politicians. Pig, indeed.
    Sincerely
    H Thomas Finley III
    Marshville NC.

  3. #13

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    Hi Tom

    Yes the mounting flange screws are glued in at the factory, and the suggested method is to heat the screw to soften the glue, donno if that works, my soldering is not hot enough.

    But the last lens I relubed a type 2 series E 5 cm /1.8 was easy.

    rubber glove doughnut zinc ointment box for nameplate
    three screws after removing nail varnish seal
    unscrew both heliciod
    de grease
    re grease
    reassemble &thread three screws
    set infinity tighten three screws
    replace name plate

    Doing it again 20 mins

    Actual time 8 hours!

    The actual time cause I deliberately, to minimise wear clearances, used different pair of heliciod starts, not recommended you try that, cause they are paired with this lens. Best to mark them with file...

    Sneakily I did not remove the mounting flange instead using large darning needle to realign the lens cell keys with the mount keyways. Needs three hands, and takes 15 of 20 mins.

    I've looked at the rubber rungs on my AI lenses and they should lift off though mine may not be factory fitted.

    Fungus is best treated with ladies hand cream, it has a special ingredient! Apply with clean finger and remove with cotton waste.

    But Im stuck with a lens ring on an EGerman lens which has penned threads, I've drilled out the area but the ring still won't move. Im thinking how to do.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    ... This was supposed to be a 30 minute re-lube job and it turned into a nightmare. ...
    That is EXACTLY why I just pay the small amount it costs to have a professional repair shop do that work for me.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    I just now sent an e-mail to Sean, reporting myself and submitting my name for banning ...
    Before you go, Tom.. I understand how you reported yourself, please help me understand how you blocked yourself from yourself. I didn't know one could put themself on their own ignore list.

  6. #16

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    Tom, did you go off your meds?

    It may be possible that in reading many of your past posts some people may have thought you knew
    everything and wouldn't appreciate any help offered.

    Xmas generally has it right though, heating the screw should break down the glue.

    None of which helps the OP getting to his fungal problem besides Xmas. Remove the decorator
    plate, unscrew three screws and invert the lens. The front group should just drop out.
    Usually fungus is inside the front and/or rear groups so should both be accessible without taking the
    lens mount off.

    BTW Tom, you're the one bitching about politics and both parties have gone overboard on PC.
    Expletive Deleted!

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by snapguy View Post
    I believe you mean "Japanese," what you used is a racial slur. I have any number of Nikon lenses going back to the 1960s and into the 2010s. They are fine lenses. It is not easily determined how your ineptitude, or your taking on projects you do not have the ability to finish, is the fault of a particcular manufacturer. Small boys and other mean-spirited urchins take mechanical beasts apart and then gripe that they can't play with them any more.
    Don't know about that if you call me a Brit for British id assume it was an abbreviation it also might be prejorative but you would need to use context for that.

    Calling my exposure meter a crap Brit meter is opinion.

    Some equipment is difficult to maintain eg using glue as Nikon have done is bad form in my book the more normal thing to do is use a thread sealant, designed to secure screws and other threaded fasteners.

    You seem to compare Tom with 'small boys' and 'mean spirited urchins' is that intentional?

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post

    None of which helps the OP getting to his fungal problem besides Xmas. Remove the decorator
    plate, unscrew three screws and invert the lens. The front group should just drop out.
    Usually fungus is inside the front and/or rear groups so should both be accessible without taking the
    lens mount off.
    Alas no with the type II E undoing the three screws just released the focus ring with the distance scale. Which you can lift off.
    You then can undo (ie unscrew) the inner heliciod to remove the whole optic and iris assembly as a unit.
    A pro repair guy would just add grease in situ and not undo...
    Cause getting it back is difficult.
    I always disassemble and degrease to remove any grit.
    This is why I don't get a pro repair job.
    There are a different three screws which may well release the front lens optics but I did not disturb. Other than using day glow nail lacquer on their surface.

    Noel

  9. #19
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    Cross-point screws are easy to destroy without the proper screwdriver. Learned the hard way when I did my last 85/1.8 K-type AI conversion. Destroyed one of the mount screws using a #0 Phillips screwdriver. Wound up using a tapered screw extractor to remove it. Bought the proper screwdriver from one of the repair shops I frequent. Now, lens mount screws are no big deal, even if they are crosspoint. With the slotted screws, take a 3.5mm slotted screwdriver and grind it down until it fits the screw exactly. Even if threadlocking compound was used, which most Nikkors have if they haven't been worked on previously, the screws come out VERY easily.

    The focusing rings come off in various methods, some require rolling the grip off the ring, others have a two-piece ring (read the Nikkor-S/SC and early K-type 50/1.4's) that needs to be split using a rubber band on the front part of the ring, and others have set screws that are accessible under the filter ring (Nikkor-H/HC 50/2, and possibly the K-type and AI versions as well).

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3HP, F2AS, Nikomat FT2, Nikkormat EL, FT
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  10. #20
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Good screw drivers and downward pressure is a must. Thread locker such as red loctite needs heat to break the bond. A soldering iron held of the head of screw will do it. I actually have one lens I took apart from my super ikonta that has fungus that I can't reach as There is a tiny set screw that is worn away. I tried going in from the back but couldn't reach the lens elements I needed too. I don't think there is any way to get it out as I had to file down a flat head screw driver to get the other 2 out. Really tiny stuff is always a headache.

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