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  1. #11
    AgX
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    This could be an electronic fault by giving the second curtain no delay.
    Or a mechanical one by not cocking the second curtain.
    Or by not cocking the first curtain.

    If those strips (out of sight) emerging from the curtain are torn it cannot be drawn back on its drum. Typically such a curtain would have less tension when static.
    Last edited by AgX; 06-21-2014 at 06:23 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #12

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    Just to eliminate an unlikely cause give us an answer on whether there are any edge markings on the film.
    If there are none then the film was fixed before being developed. Highly unlikely but it eliminates another possible cause.

    For there to be no image not even the very faintest then the film was never exposed to light at all. Taken in normal daylight even the slightest exposure should have given a very faint image

    pentaxuser

  3. #13

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    Yes there was edge marking on the film i.e where the film was pulled to put onto the spool it was slightly darker. Also there were no markings, it was completely blank

  4. #14

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    The edge markings were there so I'd think that it was not loaded correctly. It's a very common accident and
    many thousands of people have done it. Ooops!

    When the film is at the first frame, put a bit of tension on the rewind knob, Just enough to see if the film starts to wind back in the cassette. If it does, the leader wasn't securely threaded into the take up spool.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  5. #15
    AgX
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    John,

    when I loaded the film the rewind knob turned when I advanced the film.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by zilali View Post
    Yes there was edge marking on the film i.e where the film was pulled to put onto the spool it was slightly darker. Also there were no markings, it was completely blank
    Excuse me but this is like pulling teeth. Are there edge markings or not? Do you see frame numbers on the edges of the film, does it say Kodak or Ilford or whatever the film was that you used, along the edge somewhere, they should be clear to see even if the camera didn't expose the film.

    Steve

  7. #17
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    Here is a negative with edge markings - the number "4" and "4A"at the bottom, and the "Kodak FX 5060" at the top

    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  8. #18
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    The Canon A1 uses a Horizontal travel focal plane shutter. There are two curtains wound on a drum each side of the film plane opening and spring loaded. The two curtains move independently of each other. The first curtain is just long enough to go from the take up drum to the set drum. The second curtain is long enough and taller to wind fully onto the set drum with an opening the distance of the film plane opening. When you wind the film the shutter curtains are wound onto the set drum with the first curtain blocking the film plane opening. When releasing the shutter on B the first curtain is wound onto the supply/take up drum by spring tension and the film plane is open to the lens and the mirror goes up. Upon releasing the shutter button the second curtain is wound onto the supply/take up drum by spring tension and blocks the film plane opening. As you increase the shutter speed the release time between the two curtains is changed resulting in a slit opening between the two curtains moving across the film plane opening. The width of the slit depends on the shutter time selected.

    Now you have established that your shutter is in a state of malfunction as you cannot see through the film plane when the shutter is released. Even at 1/1000 shutter there would be a flicker of light on a properly operating shutter.
    With the back open advance the film wind lever very slowly. When you see the curtain starting to move observe it closely, at some point you should see two curtains with a junction seal/overlap. If you see them then use a thin blunt object to see if they will separate slightly the full height of the film plane opening. The curtains are rubberized nylon or silk and can be damaged if poked too hard or poked with a sharp pointed object. If they are stuck from age and lack of use you might be able to get them separated otherwise a trip to the repair shop is in order or return it to the seller for a full refund.
    Pictures are a Pentax, 1 is the shutter curtain junction, 2 is the film plane opening on B, shutter open.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    These should give you an idea of what to look for.
    Last edited by shutterfinger; 06-21-2014 at 04:30 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #19
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 250swb View Post
    Excuse me but this is like pulling teeth. Are there edge markings or not?
    I understand it as the film having edge markings but no imagewise markings, thus no traces inside the frame.

  10. #20

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    If you have edge markings, the film was apparently developed properly. If you opened the back of the camera, and when you fire the shutter you do not see light when it's pointed at a light source, it's either that the mirror is stuck down, or the shutter is malfunctioning (even if you see the shutter moving, you have to see light when you fire it, assuming the mirror is going up). If the shutter speeds are all the same even when you change speeds, the shutter is malfunctioning, even if your mirror is going up and down.

    You basically need another camera. Getting yours fixed is not worth what another one costs. I would buy from KEH, as they guarantee the cameras and will take a return if there's issues.
    Last edited by momus; 06-21-2014 at 05:13 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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