Yes, but you do have the memories. Harder to show around at a party, but probably worth more to you in the long run. I realize that's little consolation.
Originally Posted by titrisol
Film is cheap. Opportunities are priceless.
The EM's a nice little body, pretty much comparable to the lower-end Pentax M's. My first SLR was an EM with the Series E 50mm. It was Nikon's first Cosina-built low-end manual focus SLR.
Note that the Series E lenses are single-coated. Apart from that, they range from good (the 28mm) to superb (the 100mm, the 75-150 f3.5 zoom).
I came to be a Nikon owner by accident - I bought a "broken" FG from a guy two doors down at a garage sale he was having... for $5 bucks (with a Nikon flash!)! A rubbing of the contacts and new batteries, "fixed" the camera. Its a great consumer grade camera, my wife loves its compact size and I found it takes great pictures. Why the story:
I would definitely part with one of the EM's (unless sentimental vaule comes into play - both) to obtain at least an FG. Personally, I find it to be on the minimum end of what I need out of an SLR, and the auto-only EM would not cut it. (Note, the FG20 is a basically an EM+, not the same as the actual FG).
What kind of glass do you have in that goodie bag?
I can tell you this much, the 50mm E series lens I got on mine is sharp as a tack, as good as any 50mm lens I have used save for the Canon f1.4 SSC - but its not really a fair comparison. It is pretty flimsy-feeling, but hey, mine has yet to fall apart or give me any trouble at all. And as Dave pointed out, flimsy is a relative term - it still lookslike a bank vault next to a new EF mount Canon 50mm f1.8...
When Nikon introduced the EM, a low-priced electronic automatic-exposure control camera, I added it to my Nikon arsenal. The main reason that I liked this camera was that because of the low price, it was expendable. If I damaged it, I could just throw it away and get another one, or if I lost it, I would not be losing a camera of great value. In 1981, Popular Photography magazine advertised the EM body for $126.95.
Here are some of my notes about the EM:
1. Fixed viewfinder
2. Fixed view screen
3. No interchangeable back
4. Has a hot shoe, but no flash PC connection.
5. No depth of field preview.
6. No mirror-lock up.
7. Has self-timer
8. Uses AI and AI converted lenses.
9. Does not need the prong (rabbit ears) on AI and AI converted lenses to function.
10. Cannot use pre-AI lenses
11. Accepts auto focus lenses but unable to use the auto focus feature of the lens (photographer must manually focus the lens).
12. Unable to use lenses that do not have aperture ring (G lenses)
13. Has built-in center-weighted light meter.
14. Must advance the film to the first frame before the built-in light meter will work.
15. “AUTO” setting provides aperture priority metering only.
16. Flash syncs at 1/90th second (M90 setting)
17. “B” is bulb setting
18. When the batteries are dead, the camera will still fire on 1/90th of a second when set on “M90” (mechanical 1/90th second).
19. When the batteries are dead, the camera will still fire at 1/1000th of a second when set on “AUTO.”
20. The built-in light meter in my EM tended to underexposed Kodak Ektachrome 400 film. I compensated by setting the ASA to 300.
21. Backlighting, snow, fluorescent lights, night scenes with streetlights, and scenes with a lot of open sky result in underexposed images. Compensation was possible by using the blue button near the film rewind to increase the exposure by two f/stops. (Note: the button is silver in some EM models)
22. The blue button near the film rewind is also used to test the battery.
23. When my EM batteries got too cold, it stopped functioning.
24. When my EM got wet in the rain, it stopped functioning. A drying out and a change of batteries usually got it working again.
25. If the rewind knob were accidentally pulled up, the camera back would open and expose a minimum of 6 frames of film. To prevent this from happening, I always sealed my EM with black electrical tape.
26. The EM body, an aluminum alloy metal frame surrounded by polycarbonate, was able to withstand everyday wear and tear very well.
27. I was able to equip my EM with a low-priced motor drive. At the time, a motor drive for my F2 cameras was too expensive.
28. The film transport mechanism tended to slip when loading film; therefore, I always double checked to make sure the rewind lever rotated when the film advanced.
29. As the camera ages, it tends to develop light leaks. The leak is likely to occur near the hinge of the camera back. To repair, remove the old foam and replace it with new foam. One source of foam and instructions for repairing the leak is Jon Goodman on eBay (user name Interslice).
I no longer used the EM as my expendable Nikon body. Instead, I use the F70/N70. At today’s low film camera prices, I am able to get an F70/N70 body on eBay for less than $100.
Be aware that the EM has an usual "feature", the meter will not turn on initially until you have wound off 2 to 3 frames. I assume that this is to get you past the film leader. However, it often confuses new owners into thinking that their meter is bad.
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