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  1. #1

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    Moving back to an older Nikon body.

    Last night a friend of mine showed me an FE body, and after looking it over I thought it was the cat's meow. Small, light, exposure comp dial, nice easy stop down lever, decent flash sync and solid construction. The one thing that it didn't seem to have that I would like is flash ttl and a higher shutter speed. I love the size of the camera tho and am wondering what body would maintain the size & features, (I like the meter needle) plus give me flash ttl and a higher shutter speed. From the little reading I've done it appears maybe the FE2 or the FA which was apparently the first version of matrix metering, and maybe not that good. What are your choices?

  2. #2
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Hi Wayne,

    An FM2 sounds like what you are looking for. I still have this one for sale if interested; http://www.apug.org/classifieds/show...cat=all&page=1

    Also have a Sunpak 333 TTL flash that goes with it but is not listed in the ad.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
    My Photography Blog

  3. #3

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    waynecrider
    The FM2 sounds like it would fit the bill, flash synch is 125 or 250 depending on production date but there is no ttl flash. You get a ready light in the finder with the third contact on the hot shoe.
    Nice camera!
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  4. #4

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    FE2 has TTL and 1/2500 max shutter speed. Great little body. I have two. My only complaint is that I can't see the darn needle for night shots.

  5. #5

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    I shot with an FA for a number of years. The v1.0 Matrix Metering worked pretty well (It's exactly the same as the later F801/N8008 and differs only slightly from the F4's, which has an orientation sensor).

    But the FA, like the FM2 and F3, has that horrible non-lit LCD metering readout.

    I'd look at the FM3a or FE2 now. Especially the FM3a, which has all the strengths of both the FM2n and FE2 (Aperture priority, needle readout, TTL flash, fully manual operation without batteries)

  6. #6
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mawz
    But the FA, like the FM2 and F3, has that horrible non-lit LCD metering readout.
    Hmm, that's a pretty subjective statement. The FM2 I have has an an LCD light indicator that reads +/0/- giving you a direct indication of the exposure. Using a flash like the sunpak gives TTL flash. I think what you are forgetting is that the settings (shutter speed and f-stop) on the FM2 are completely manual. Nothing is automatic except the flash brightness when it is used. But, your mileage may vary.
    Semper Fi & God Bless America
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Hawley
    Hmm, that's a pretty subjective statement. The FM2 I have has an an LCD light indicator that reads +/0/- giving you a direct indication of the exposure. Using a flash like the sunpak gives TTL flash. I think what you are forgetting is that the settings (shutter speed and f-stop) on the FM2 are completely manual. Nothing is automatic except the flash brightness when it is used. But, your mileage may vary.
    How do you get TTL flash with an FM2? The FM3A, sure, but the FM2 and FM2n only has a flash ready light in the viewfinder.

    Back to the original post.... I'd look for a clean FE2, F3, or FM3A if you want TTL flash. TTL with an F3 is limited to 3 Nikon flash units (SB-11 (w/SC-12), SB-12. and SB-16A), unless you use the Flash Coupler AS-17. Of course, Metz has SCA modules for the F3 and Sunpak makes F3 modules, as do a few others. I have the Sunpak F3 module for my 120J TTL. It works OK, but the flash won't mount on the camera if I have my DA-2 finder installed. The SC-14 cord allows any of the wacky F3 specific units to be used off camera and maintain TTL flash operation.

    Of all the Nikon flash units, I think the SB-11 is the best for the F3. It has a pretty decent guide nnumber, and depending upon the cord used, will work with ANY camera.

    On the mir site (Photography in Malaysia), they mention the Vivitar F3 flash coupler. I picked one up on ebay figuring that I could use my SB-15 in a pinch. Well, it didn't work out. Seems that with a Vivitar flash that's Nikon TTL capable it's OK, but NOT with a Nikon unit!
    Bob Fowler
    fowler@verizon.net
    Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

  8. #8
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    F3
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by df cardwell
    F3
    Aren't the F3's heavier then the FE and FE2's?

    Btw, it appears the cost of FE2's is under $200.

  10. #10
    df cardwell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waynecrider
    Aren't the F3's heavier then the FE and FE2's?

    Btw, it appears the cost of FE2's is under $200.
    Of course, Nikon F3 is a little bigger than the FE2.

    Of course, it's a little more expensive than an FE2.

    Of course, the FE2 is an extremely good camera.


    The F3 is a much greater value. It is better in every way.


    I'd look at everything relative to the F3: what do you get by not buying an F3 ?

    That sets up a very difficult argument for any camera out there.
    .
    "One of the painful things about our time is that those who feel certainty are stupid,
    and those with any imagination and understanding are filled with doubt and indecision"

    -Bertrand Russell

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