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  1. #11
    roteague's Avatar
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    Not sure how much you are willing to spend, but Nikon has the real sweet 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D ED AF VR lens, about $1500 I think. I'm thinking about getting one myself.
    Robert M. Teague
    www.visionlandscapes.com
    www.apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=2235

    "A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist" -- Louis Nizer

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by naturephoto1
    Hi Wayne,

    If you do go this route, be aware that these lenses are a pre-set type- they work at the actual aperture and are not automatic.
    Rich
    Wouldn't a fixed aperture of 6.8 be to limiting as far as dof?

  3. #13
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    A pre-set aperture isn't fixed. It just doesn't have an auto-diaphragm. Usually there is one ring to set the aperture, and then one ring without click stops to check the focus wide open, then you can return it to the "pre-set" aperture chosen on the other ring.

    In practice, for birds, you're usually going to be wide open. You need all the speed you can get.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by waynecrider
    Other problem is that the N80 I have only allows metering with teleconverters for the AFS and AFI lenses, of course the really expensive ones. So, I need a suggestion to either trade over to another brand, maybe with a standard cheaper body, or 2, get something in a later model Nikon that would allow me to use my lens and buy a teleconverter,

    If I understand you've got an AIS or AI lens and want to meter? If I've understood the Nikon stuff

    1) Nikon F4 will meter fully.

    2) F100 or F5 will not matrix meter but will spot and average meter.

    3) F6 will fully meter.

    The F4 is the cheapest by far. If you're only using manual focus then it maybe the best choice. I picked up a bargain KEH F4 for not much money. KEH calls it bargain it looks mint to me.

  5. #15
    naturephoto1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    A pre-set aperture isn't fixed. It just doesn't have an auto-diaphragm. Usually there is one ring to set the aperture, and then one ring without click stops to check the focus wide open, then you can return it to the "pre-set" aperture chosen on the other ring.

    In practice, for birds, you're usually going to be wide open. You need all the speed you can get.
    Hi Wayne,

    In the case of the Leica f6.8 400mm and 560mm lenses, you are working at the aperture set on the lens. There is no linkage with a lever on the camera (though there is a lever on the mentioned R Cameras that will work with the auto diagram Leica lenses) or on the lens. Works fine. As David says you are normally working wide open or near wide open. The aperture ring is far forward on the lens and the aperture information can not be read in camera (shutter info is however and with other lenses with auto diagram aperture and shutter speed info is available). However, the camera will still meter through the lens (with choice of spot and averaging metering) and meter readings can be set either manually or via Aperture prefered with all the Leica R cameras mentioned except the R 6 and R 6.2. The lens does stop down to f32 if needed (as I recall), but not normally recommended.

    Rich
    Richard A. Nelridge
    http://www.nelridge.com

  6. #16

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    A little to far away... Original scan off the minilab print and cropped pic off the lab scan.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails heron049.JPG   Heron2.jpg  

  7. #17
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    Hi Wayne,

    Print film am I correct? The scans look a bit washed out for the Great Blue Heron and the rocks. How do the original prints and the negatives look?

    Rich
    Richard A. Nelridge
    http://www.nelridge.com

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by naturephoto1
    Hi Wayne,

    Print film am I correct? The scans look a bit washed out for the Great Blue Heron and the rocks. How do the original prints and the negatives look?

    Rich
    Yep, Fuji 160 ProS. The prints look just as bad since I took the film over to the local Fuji minilab instead of down to my main lab. I didn't want to spend the extra money when I was just testing the film and the only reason I got the prints was to look at the paper and see what the lens was liked racked out. The sun was very bright and I probably should have overexposed the film a little to boost the saturation, but at least I know what to expect from the film in the conditions I was in. Their not to be taken as good photo's, just examples.

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