the only other thing you might need would be a set of polarizing gels for your lights--they run about 50 bucks apiece for a sheet big enough to cover the output of a tota light or a strobe head. the other alternative would be a set of the old kodak polalights if you can find any. having the ability to cross polarize (lens & lights) is a big help in copywork....
btw--the bencher is bigger than an MP4 (I've used both the MP4XL and an MP3 as well, and surplused both of them also.) and the lights are better. When I used the MP4, I took the sidearms & lights off and replaced them with either speedotron strobes on stands or lowell tota lights on stands, depending on what I was working with....better coverage & more even.
in our studio, we use a Linhof copystand as well. it has a shorter column, but the build quality is superb. it's a great stand for shooting small objects--for lights we use strobes or hotlights, it just depends on what we're working on. I use a glass stage on that sometimes to shoot coins as well.
If you have a lot of flat copying to do, and you aren't talking about 1:1 copying, the Leitz Reprovit II is magic. I've seen them go quite cheaply, but you do need an old M-series body to go with it. The Reprovit should come with a lens and lights.
I would not use an SLR.
If you want to do 35mm copying (for 4x5 there is the MP-4 and then, of course, there are the Linhof copying cameras) I'd just get a good repro-stand and get something like a Robot Recorder with bulk magazine--- made in 10m, 30m, 60m and 150m sizes. The 10 meter back is quite small but still allows for 250 shots in 24x36mm or 370 in 24x24mm. 10 meters is just right the Jobo and LOMO bulk/cine tanks and I think, the longest one might want to process without a roller transport machine--- and especially without a special dryer.
In a reproduction environment with the Robot, alignment and critical focus is done with a ground glass. The shutter is rotary so the camera stays completely registered in aligment. The MOTOR Recorder runs off 24v (or some as little as 12v). They are faster and provide more acurate frame registration than ANY amateur camera (including all the Leica M-x, Nikon F-x etc).
The Leica Reprovit-II is good but you need have an MDa or an M-3 (comtemporary Leica M models won't work) and maybe a Focotar-2.. bits that are still traded at comparatively high prices even if Reprovit-IIs can be had for small change.
I really like the Reprovit-II but but its not quite, I think, to the levels of Robot on a good repro stand (such as an MP-4 frame) or even one of the heavier Kaiser models.
Today inexpensive but in the days of MDa/Reprovits the Robot repro system was also very expensive. A Document system (WITHOUT Stand or Magzine but with lens, power-supply and flash) would have cost no less than $3000 USD in 1980.
My II (maybe IIa, I'm not familiar with the differences) works with my classic M6 bodies, but the M7 would probably foul the slide mechanism. I don't know whether or not it was modified before I got it, but I did nothing to it. What should the problem be?
Originally Posted by edz
If you say so. The M4, M4-2, M4-P, M-5 and M-6 normally need a special modification. They used to be available (might still be) from Leica.
Originally Posted by Helen B
I don't think the M7 will work. Leica also, I think, never offered a modification as it was no longer an issue.
but the M7 would probably foul the slide mechanism.
They might well have been modified. The Reprovits were quite popular and provided (not just by Leica standards) good value, function and quality. Do your "bodies" have little metal studs?
I don't know whether or not it was modified before I got it, but I did nothing to it.
It won't fit or won't latch.
What should the problem be?
To clarify: If one owns a few suitable camera bodies then the Reprovit-IIa is a great piece of kit. The MDa camera is also neat since it allows one to "imprint" data onto the negative--- unfortunately collectors still seem to want these finderless cameras. Within the current give-away (trading at prices below what even low end repro stands might cost) its a great choice. Important is to get a complete one, including the 45 degree tube (to bring the light down to project) and vertical tube (to view). Since these are removable.. as the old saying goes about anything that's not glued or bolted on......
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Nah, buy a new F6. Keep Nikon in business.
[COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]
Rio Rancho, NM