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  1. #1

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    Kalimar K-90 SLR 35mm w/ telephoto lense

    Yea, Just one this camera off of eBay, And I am wondering if 1: are they good cameras, 2 If not, What do with it ? 3: Telephoto lense.. What exactly can that do? (picture examples if possible)

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230039728895

    thanks!!!!!!

  2. #2

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    dana,
    1)For $20 you can hardly go wrong using it as a first real camera.
    2)Kalimar wasn't a manufacturer but an importer so it could be any of several mfrs. including Cosina.
    3)The zoom will act like a telescope or monocular. It will make the subject appear closer. On this lens the magnification will be from about twice to four times(2X-4X) what you would get with the 50mm.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    dana,
    1)For $20 you can hardly go wrong using it as a first real camera.
    2)Kalimar wasn't a manufacturer but an importer so it could be any of several mfrs. including Cosina.
    3)The zoom will act like a telescope or monocular. It will make the subject appear closer. On this lens the magnification will be from about twice to four times(2X-4X) what you would get with the 50mm.

    So.. Could I make it take pictures like this:

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...cturre3040.jpg

    I know that has to deal with apparture.. according to my other thread.. dang! I really need a photography book!!!

  4. #4
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    Tommy5c has one of these, purchased new at the time, I believe. His works well, and If I remember correctly it has a Pentax mount. Check that though before you go buying lenses, as I'm not crystal on that.

    The 80-200 will give you the DOF like in your other post at its most open apertures, the effect increasing, the more you edge to 200mm. Other factors will come in to play when you get long, like camera shake, and perhaps sharpness, as that 80-200 probably isn't the sharpest tack in the box, but for $20 it will serve you well as a learning tool. Congratulations, you're down the rabbit hole...hehehehe.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBrunner View Post
    Tommy5c has one of these, purchased new at the time, I believe. His works well, and If I remember correctly it has a Pentax mount. Check that though before you go buying lenses, as I'm not crystal on that.

    The 80-200 will give you the DOF like in your other post at its most open apertures, the effect increasing, the more you edge to 200mm. Other factors will come in to play when you get long, like camera shake, and perhaps sharpness, as that 80-200 probably isn't the sharpest tack in the box, but for $20 it will serve you well as a learning tool. Congratulations, you're down the rabbit hole...hehehehe.
    Really. I do need to learn more, becuase this is slightly above my knowledge

    that lense can take pix like that, but at it's most open apertures, but i have to worry about camera shake (the picture is in focus, but comes out blurry to to movement of the lense during the open shutter)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dana44 View Post
    Really. I do need to learn more, becuase this is slightly above my knowledge

    that lense can take pix like that, but at it's most open apertures, but i have to worry about camera shake (the picture is in focus, but comes out blurry to to movement of the lense during the open shutter)
    Yes, a good rule of thumb (for 35) is that the shutter speed equal the focal length, or better, even double. For example at 100mm a good safe shutter speed would be 1/200. A tripod helps you cheat.

    The reason is that the longer focal length magnifies camera movement. Kind of like the difference between 6x and 10x binoculars, when your trying to hold them still to look through.

  7. #7

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    To take this a bit further, aperture and shutter speed are related: If you've got correct exposure at (say) f/8 and 1/125s but you want a faster shutter speed (1/250s), you'd need to open up the aperture to f/5.6 (smaller f-numbers mean bigger apertures) to keep the correct exposure. If you want to blur the background as in the sample photo, you'd want to open the aperture as wide as possible (which might only be f/5.6; the auction doesn't specify, and cheap zooms of this range often have maximum apertures of f/4-5.6).

    If you find you can't get the combination of shutter speed and aperture that you want, you may need to change films. Faster films (say, ISO 800 rather than ISO 200) let you use faster shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures. Slower films (say, ISO 50 rather than ISO 200) let you use slower shutter speeds and/or wider apertures. If you want the latter, you can also stick neutral density (ND) filters on the lens to block light but not change the color balance. If you're just starting out, though, I'd recommend you not worry about ND filters for the moment.

  8. #8

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    See: www.butkus.org/chinon/ for a copy of the manual. Most were Pentax K mounts but I have seen reports of some with Yashica-Contax mounts.
    JeffW.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elox View Post
    See: www.butkus.org/chinon/ for a copy of the manual. Most were Pentax K mounts but I have seen reports of some with Yashica-Contax mounts.

    Thanks a bunch! I should have it next week!!

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    Keep us up to date on your adventure.

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