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  1. #1
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    NEW Voigtlander with Rollei QBM!!!

    Too bad they don't make one of the Cosina Voigtlanders with the Rollei QBM

    My beloved SL35E, that I have had since 1986, finally stopped working and in the same month a SL2000F also stopped. I still have two 3003s left but I was without a 'conventional' type 35mm body.

    I picked up a nice small compact manual Yashica, with the Contax mount, however, all the Zeiss lenses are much, much more expensive in the Contax/Yashica mount. It is a shame that I have so many of the Rollei 50mm Planar lenses lying around I use them as paper weights. But to buy just a 50mm Planar with the Contax/Yashica mount on e-bay costs almost $200!!! The "Yashica" 50mm lens on the camera is pretty bad. Even at f8 I was just a 'film waster.'

    So, I figured, even if they DID make a Voigtlander with the QBM, it would probably cost about $300 or more. So I budgeted myself to just pick up an an older manual Rollei body.

    I found an 'unused in box' SL35M and got if for about $160.

    Boy, this is an OLD design, the body is big and has a little 'peep hole' to view the screen. It has the ancient horizontal, non-rubberized cloth shutter that goes to 1/1000. My first camera when I was 12 years old (in 1973) was more advanced than this.

    The SL35E was a lot better design, though, I don't think either can be counted on lasting another 10 years. I kind of have this feeling that the electronics in all the SL35Es out there have broken down and there are really no good ones left, that is why I went with the older, manual camera.

    Of course, the MADE in GERMANY SL35 is probably the one to get, but the 'collectors' are hoarding these and they are a little expensive.

    A little irony in this whole situation is that the camera I wound up getting (the SL35M) IS actually a Voigtlander VSL1 that Rollei marketed as a Rollieflex with the QBM.

    The picture shows my old SL35E with the recently broken shutter and my 'unused in box' SL35M.

    I have never been a big fan of Canon, but I do see the Canon/Rollei QBM adapters on e-bay. Perhaps I will give that a try also.
    Last edited by ic-racer; 06-14-2007 at 11:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    If you're interested, I have some other optics for that system I'd be willing to unload, specifically an 85mm 1.4, and a 35mm f2.8. I'd have to dig around in my storage locker to find them. I'd be willing to let them go cheap - the 85 has some separation happening, but that actually might not be a too terrible thing, since that lens is so sharp to begin with. The diaphragm is also a little sticky, but it works. The 35mm is in pretty good shape overall. I should also still have a motor winder for that system. Let me know if you're interested in any of the bits.

  3. #3

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    "I have never been a big fan of Canon, but I do see the Canon/Rollei QBM adapters on e-bay".

    Huh?
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  4. #4
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Layne View Post
    "I have never been a big fan of Canon, but I do see the Canon/Rollei QBM adapters on e-bay".

    Huh?
    Here is a link to one of these adapters. It would be nice if someone that has used one of these could comment on it.http://cgi.ebay.com/Rollei-Lens-to-C...QQcmdZViewItem

    In terms of EOS cameras, there does not seem to be a manual/metal camera in the line. The F1 series has a different mount and I suspect this adapter will not work with those cameras.

    Based on the review on this site it looks like the EOS 1N might be the camera to get.
    http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/...n-current.html

  5. #5
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    SL35M in use

    After using this camera for a while I am getting more used to it. It actually is a little more sophistocated than the Fuji 701 I had in 1973. The SL 35M has open aperture metereing vs the stop-down metering of the 701. Also the SL35M shows the aperture in the viewfinder whereas the 701 did not.

    The think I really did not like about the SL35M was its resemblance to the Zenit-E. My parents got me a Zenit-E for Christmas in 1972 and my brother got an OM-1. I almost cried I was so upset. The SL35M has the same dimensions and the same "Ker-Thunk" from the shutter as the Zenit-E. At least the shutter speed dial doesn't spin as the shutter fires.

    My first two rolls of film came out fine. The meter works OK and I am using it with the Zinc/Air batteries and it seems to be close to my other cameras.

  6. #6
    Brac's Avatar
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    When I bought my first new 35mm SLR in 1977 I was faced with the choice between a Rollei SL35M and a Pentax KX, there not being much difference in price. But the Rollei felt clunky and less well engineered than the Pentax as well as being a bit larger. So I bought the Pentax and never regretted it. I still have it but it doesn't get much use these days.

  7. #7

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    Buying an EOS camera to use a Rollei lens seems to be a very silly idea to me. You are correct, the F1 is an FD mount, and is incompatible with the EF mount used on EOS cameras. Canon did make the EF-M which is a manual focus camera with a EF lens mount. It has autoexposure, and I think it was only made in limited quantities. This article contains some good information on using non-canon lenses on EOS cameras.

  8. #8
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reub2000 View Post
    Buying an EOS camera to use a Rollei lens seems to be a very silly idea to me. You are correct, the F1 is an FD mount, and is incompatible with the EF mount used on EOS cameras. Canon did make the EF-M which is a manual focus camera with a EF lens mount. It has autoexposure, and I think it was only made in limited quantities. This article contains some good information on using non-canon lenses on EOS cameras.
    I really am ignorant of any thing Cannon post the F1, but are you implying that if one had the EOS camera, one could just use the EOS lenses? I did a quick internet search and found that "full time manual focus" is some kind of extra feature that is not included on all lenses. I wonder how much would it cost to replace my 28/2.0, 18/4, 16/2.8, 35/1.4, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, 135/2.8 and 60/2.8makro lenses with the manual focus EOS lenses? It would be nice to have a set of nice modern lenses.

    15/2.8 Fisheye = $560 for 16/2.8
    20/2.8 = $400 for 18/4
    50/2.8 macro = $230 for 60/2.8 makro
    50/1.4 = $300 for 50/1.4
    28/1.8 = $400 for 28/2.0
    35/1.4 = $1100 for 35/1.4
    35/2.0 = $220 for compact 35/2.8
    135/2.0 = $900 for 135/2.8

    $4110 total.

    Seemed like a good idea until I added it all up. Plus, I'm not shure how well they manual focus. Also, my Zeiss lenses are durable metal, are not these EOS lenses made of plastic and will they still work when the electronic gizmoz break. (I don't mean the lens elements, which I am taking for granted are going to be as good or superior to the Zeiss lenses).

  9. #9
    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    All Canon EOS lenses are capable of being manually focused in addition to auto-focusing. You just have to switch the lens into manual-focus mode. Before you go bashing the build quality of EOS lenses, try handling some of the L-series lenses with cast metal bodies. Or even the black-bodied L-series lenses. They have metal chassis and lensmounts. Just because something is metal doesn't mean it is automatically superior, and just because something is less-automated doesn't mean it is inferior either.

  10. #10

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    Full time manual, often abbreviated FTM means that the lens can always be manually focused. It has to do with the Ultrasonic Motor inside of the lens. Non-USM lenses have a switch on the barrel that has to be switched to the MF position to manually focus. On some lenses, like the 24mm f/2.8 it means that the focus ring gets disconnected. On lenses like the 50mm f/1.8, you will feel a lot of resistance on the focusing ring, and risk damaging the focusing gears if you turn the focusing ring. With a USM lens, you can turn the focusing ring even when the lens is set to AF.

    You can get the adapter for using the rollei lenses, and and then manual focus the lenses. You would also have to use stopdown metering which means stopping down your lens to the desired aperture before taking a meter reading.

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