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Thread: OM-2 Problem

  1. #1

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    OM-2 Problem

    I received a OM-2 I purchased off of eBay, today.

    One of the first things I noticed was the film counter didn't return from E to S when opening the back, it went from E to 20..

    Everything else worked fine, until I did something (can't remember) and now the shutter button is locked depressed and I can't advance the film lever.. Shutter is closed and mirror is down and everything else "functions"

    I believe it happened when I was messing with the self-timer.

    I didn't know if this was Camera or User Error, and if it could be resolved somehow?

    EDIT: I took the bottom plate off, and there was a mystery screw by some of the linkage, removed that and fired the shutter and all seems well now, except my mirror locked-up, which is probably because I have no batteries ATM.. Will update again.
    Last edited by maddermaxx; 12-22-2007 at 04:08 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #2

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    It should lock up when there are no/dead batteries it is completely battery dependent. Unlock it by turning the shutter speed dial to B & it should release the mirror.
    It sounds as if the counter is upgefucked. As I recall, the dial should have a half turn of tension on it when assembled and if it's not a goin' to S it's fooled with.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  3. #3

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    Took the bottom plate off, and it appears the shutter linkage isn't being pushed all the way to the way it needs to be to advance the film, is there supposed to be anything pushing it? Because as of right now one end just sits in a spring-loaded notch. Maybe it will all work when it gets batteries back in it..

    Edit: Well, new batteries and still no avail, so I emailed the seller to see what he has to say.
    Last edited by maddermaxx; 12-22-2007 at 07:34 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #4

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    Batteries are no problem. You can get them anywhere, and everything will lock up without a battery, except in B. The frame counter might be a different matter.

    David

  5. #5
    Peter Black's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maddermaxx View Post
    Took the bottom plate off, and it appears the shutter linkage isn't being pushed all the way to the way it needs to be to advance the film, is there supposed to be anything pushing it? Because as of right now one end just sits in a spring-loaded notch. Maybe it will all work when it gets batteries back in it..

    Edit: Well, new batteries and still no avail, so I emailed the seller to see what he has to say.
    You can find a manual at the link below, but also note that the first page has a Reset Procedure which you'd maybe want to try first off. Good luck!

    http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography...nual/index.htm

  6. #6
    Allan Swindles's Avatar
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    maddermaxx, don't wish to add to your problem but check your light seals and mirror dampers as they WILL most likely require attention. I have purchased two or three OM-2/2n bodies off ebay, described as mint-, exc.++, all of which required replacement seals/dampers. but otherwise in good condition. Bear in mind that these cameras are 30+ years old and foam is a perishable item and doesn't last that long.
    I'm into painting with light - NOT painting by numbers!

  7. #7

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    Have to agree with Allan. I've got 6 OM1n bodies plus a couple of OM2n's and even the absolute cosmetic minters needed the seals replacing. I've just got to stop buying them
    So many drummers, so little time.

  8. #8

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    If this happened while playing with the self timer, try recocking the self timer all the way, then move the small black tab with white strip to keep the ST from unwinding. This will take tension off the release button linkage and may let the button up. Then set shutter speed dial to B (the purely mechanical speed) and wind and fire the shutter. With the shutter wound, start the self timer again and let it finish. Use (2) silver oxide batteries (the camera was designed around them) MS76, KS76, SR-44W, G13, 357, 303. Alkaline and lithium batteries are NG and may cause shutter lockup and meter errors of 2 stops or more.
    All 2N need new foam now, not to mention the foam inside pressing against the pentaprism. If prism foam is not removed it will eat through the prism coating and will appear in the finder first as small bubbles at the bottom of the focus screen, then as dark green or black patches covering 25% or more of the screen. You'll see these prism defects in almost every OM-1 that has not been overhauled.
    Frame counter probably has thickened oil in it which is preventing it from resetting OR reset tab has been foamed over. John, www.zuiko.com

  9. #9

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    John, I too just bought an OM camera off Ebay, in my case an OM-2n. If it arrives with prism damage along the lines of what you described, is that something that can be repaired/replaced?

  10. #10

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    If the damage is very minor it can sometimes be scraped off and cleaned with alcohol. If the damage goes through the aluminum plating, it may show more in the finder. I often replace the prism as the damage can be very bad. Prisms from OM-1, 1N, OM-10, G, 20, PC, and 40 can be used. John, www.zuiko.com, Olympus OM Service since 1977.

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