Marko, it's all a matter of practice. Look at the subject, but be aware of the light.
I think of it as taking a picture of how the light falls on the subject!
and BTW: I sometimes shoot LF slides without a light meter. I haven't been seriously off on the exposure yet.
-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
Makes sense Ole. I'll try to think about that!
Slides without a light meter?!?!? I used to do B&W without a meter.
The "Holiday snaps" in my gallery were shot on 4x5" Fuji Velvia, with an uncoated lens, exposure by guesstimate.
-- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
Marko, you might benefit by learning the SLAT rule. EV = S + L = A + T (where EV = the Exposure Value: S = your film's speed index number (ISO): L = the Additive Light Value , numeric value of the light reflecting from your subject: A = your aperture setting: T = your shuTter speed setting)
EV = A + T
Shutter speeds and apertures are given numeric values that combine to give you an exposure value (EV).
1 second = 0, 1/2 sec = 1, 1/4 = 2, 1/8 = 3, 1/15 = 4, 1/30 = 5, 1/60 = 6, 1/125 = 7, 1/250 = 8, 1/500 = 9, 1/1000 = 10.
f/1 = 0, f/1.4 = 1, f/2 - 2, f/2.8 = 3, f/4 = 4, f/5.6 = 5, f/8 = 6, f/11 = 7, f/16 = 8, f/22 = 9, f/32 = 10.
Say you meter a scene and read an exposure value of 13, then any compination of settings that total 13 will give an equal and average exposure to your scene, ie. 1/60(6) at f/11(7). 6+7=13. And any other combination as well.
EV = S + L
For Additive light values and film speed indeces, the same roughly applies.
ISO3 - 0, ISO6 = 1, ISO12 = 2, ISO25 = 3, ISO 50 = 4, ISO100 = 5, ISO200 = 6, ISO400 = 7, ISO800 = 8, ISO1600 = 9, ISO3200 = 10
Additive light values (in candles per square foot (c/ft 2)
6 c/ft2 = 0, 12c/ft2 = 1, 25c/ft2 = 2 50c/ft2 = 3, 100c/ft2 = 4, 200c/ft2 = 5, 400c/ft2 = 6, 800c/ft2 = 7, 1600c/ft2 = 8, 3200c/ft2 = 9, 6400c/ft2 = 10.
There are tables of rough estimates of your light source depending on bright sunlight, open shade, night illumination, etc. If you know the approximate c/ft2 of your light and you can get your film's speed index then you can get the exposure value ie. the light of the full moon (roughly 250 c/ft2)(5), ISO1600(9) then your exposure value would be (5+9) 14. Then you choose a S/S-f/stop combination that equals an exposure value of EV14 (f/11 at 1/125 and so on).
S + L = A + T SLAT
The combination of shutter speed and aperture will be equal to the combination of the light reflecting from your subject and your film's speed rating. For rough figuring of exposure you now have two ways to go about it. 1.) EV ratings on your light meter and the S+L combination of light and film speed.
There is more information such as this at www.fredparker.com. The Ultimate Exposure Calculator.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Christopher Walrath; 02-11-2008 at 10:05 PM. Click to view previous post history.
The light meters in those cameras was a real weak point anyways, so don't even think about repairing it. Even the meters in the latter K1000 (tank) series was an expensive pain to repair according to a friend that repairs Pentax cameras. Use a handheld or judge the light.
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Wayne, should I get another body and keep this as a backup then?
Thanks everyone, The Ultimate Exposure Calculator is really great!
filter thread repair method
Take a block of wood, and scribe the raduis of the outside of filter thread portion you are trying to straighten. Cut the wood along this line to yield a backing board. Clamp it to a work bench, into a vise, etc.
Get a 3/8" or so hardwood dowel, 6" long, and whittle one end down to have a flat surface on one side to form the re-bending mallet.
Place the dented filter thread against the curved backing form (Having someone else here as 3rd and 4th hands lolding the lens or filter helps immensely at this stage.) Use a hammer to cause the dowel mallet to gently in multiple blows strike the dented portion and bend it back into shape.
I don't think that I personally would. It was just a design that didn't hold up very long. If you look for a good body you'll see lot's with bad meters. You might be better off buying a small shoe mount meter and using it between camera bodies. If shooting b&w you could go without a meter and use Diafine as a developer. Eventually like all things practice makes perfect and you'll find that you can be very light sensitive as concerns exposure. Besides, 36 frames is paradise compared to 4x5 color sheet film. Shoot multiples and learn.
Originally Posted by Markok765
Have you tried fixing it? I have a spottie that had a bad meter. I took off the bottom plate (only two screws) and found the wire for the battery had come off from corrosion. The impact of the drop may have loosened a wire. It's an easy fix if that 's the problem. Buy some small screwdrivers from the dollar store and have a go. You have nothing to lose. If the problem is in the top end of the camera you're out of luck.
"I'm still developing"
I'll try that today! Question: I have film inside, if I open the bottom, will it ruin it?