The pro bodies: Ricoh XR-1(s), XR-2(s), XR-7, or the simpler but lasting KR5-Super or A50-Super (not KR-5). There are also some very useful intermediate models, like the KR-10, XR-10, or XR-M.
To save more, go for their equivalents rebadged Sears - see Butkus site for equivalents and free pdf user manuals: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html
K-mount will last forever.
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For me B&W is film and color is digital. But later I’m doing almost exclusively B&W.
Thanks for all the replies.
A little more background - having used various DSLRs along with some nice glass over the last few years, I've recently acquired an old Leica M2 with a 50mm f2.8 Elmar and started shooting film for the first time. I'm really enjoying the whole process (fully manual shooting, developing film, trying various films/developers etc.) and like the results I get with film. While my digital images are clean and noise-free, the results with ISO400 film in 35mm format generally have a slightly grainy, gritty feel and for me, evoke a sense of nostalgia that I don't get with digital.
Now that I've been bitten by the film bug, I would like a second inexpensive body that I can take places where I would worry about my M2 (out in the rain, on the beach, on small boats etc.).
Also, I would like to get 35mm lens for my M2, but with M-mount lenses costing so much, I figured I could get a 35 and maybe a 90 for relatively little cost in MD/K/M42/FD etc. mount.
Currently have my eye on an X-700 (for its small size and small price), but if it goes too high, I'll be starting from scratch again.
Currently have my eye on an X-700 (for its small size and small price), but if it goes too high, I'll be starting from scratch again.
I have two X-700s and they are superb. They are known to have a fault though, in that a certain electronic part caled a capacitor tends to go bad over time, and these cameras may be quite old. I was fortunate that the X-700 was still in production in 2000 when I bought one of mine. The capacitor repair isn't expensive, but keep it in mind if the camera starts acting weird. Do a google search and you'll see.
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Nothing worth doing is ever easy.
I have two X-700s and they are superb. They are known to have a fault though, in that a certain electronic part caled a capacitor tends to go bad over time, and these cameras may be quite old. I was fortunate that the X-700 was still in production in 2000 when I bought one of mine. The capacitor repair isn't expensive, but keep it in mind if the camera starts acting weird. Do a google search and you'll see.
Yep. An X-700 was my first and only film SLR camera, bought new in California in 1990 when I was on summer holidays from college. I was too cheap to buy much film for it though and probably shot less than 20 rolls of film by the time the capacitor died somewhere between 2004/2005 - all on P mode. By then, digital SLRs were becoming affordable and I switched to a Minolta 5D. The body was worthless with the broken capacitor, so I dumped it thinking I'd never look back - what a mistake!
I'll suggest the Canon FD system. You have a large choice of bodies, with a full selection of quality lenses and accessories. Everything from flashes, to macro gear, to super telephoto lenses are available. The prices are pretty good as well when you look at the quality of the gear.
For example, you could get camera like my T-70 with a 50mm 1.8 lens from KEH for about $80.00 to start. There are many good lenses for under $50.00, and many such as the 28mm 2.8 can be found for under $30.00. A 35mm 2.8 will cost about $35. A very good lens is the 100mm 2.8, and it can be found for around $50.00. Later if you want to try some great glass, you can step up to the 85mm 1.2, the 50mm 1.2, 100mm 2.0, 35mm 2.0, or the 135mm 2.0.
The T-70 takes AA batteries, has center weight metering, and a partial 12% spot area metering. Additionally it has three different program modes, shutter priority and full maunal mode. It is a pretty small package, and weighs 530 grams, or 18 11/16 oz. for the body only. Overall, this is a good camera with a good accurate meter, and it is easy to produce good results.
Jeff
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I would suggest an Olympus OM 1n, the same size as the Leica and almost as quiet. Can use 1.4v zinc oxide hearing aid batteries or a hand held meter. Battery only operates meter. The Oly's have a large viewfinder showing 97% of the frame and the apparent viewing distance is 6 feet. I need reading glasses to set film speed but not for shooting. Zuiko lenses are small and light and like Leica have the aperture ring at the lens end.
I have two X-700s and they are superb. They are known to have a fault though, in that a certain electronic part caled a capacitor tends to go bad over time, and these cameras may be quite old. I was fortunate that the X-700 was still in production in 2000 when I bought one of mine. The capacitor repair isn't expensive, but keep it in mind if the camera starts acting weird. Do a google search and you'll see.
Could you say a little more about the symptoms of the capacitor problem? Did the capacitor affect the meter, or some other part of the camera? I have an X-700, so I'd like to know what to be watching for.
Also, I would like to get 35mm lens for my M2, but with M-mount lenses costing so much
The prices for Leica wide angle lenses are insane.
Look at the Voigtlander lenses. You will always take better pictures with the lens you have and can afford than the lens you don't have and can't afford. Then there is Russian glass with an SM to M adapter.
If water damage is a concern you may want to look at a Nikonos.
I like taking pictures with a beater camera, I feel I have more freedom - the camera doesn't cause any worry. If I feel I will get a better picture propping the camera in a mud puddle - then I prop the camera in a mud puddle.
Could you say a little more about the symptoms of the capacitor problem? Did the capacitor affect the meter, or some other part of the camera? I have an X-700, so I'd like to know what to be watching for.
Symptom - shutter will not release. Camera powers on and meter LEDs function OK - just that shutter will fail to release.
Any OM-1n (or any older model) is likely to require a service/CLA anyway. If you send it to an authorised Olympus service centre they will fit the MR-9 adapter so you can use the common SR44 silver oxide cells and get perfect metering every time. The single digit OMs are lovely cameras to use - with no caveats.
The OM 35mm f2.8 is an overlooked lens and tiny. The older single coated version has given me many of my favourite photos and the results are sharp enough to my eyes.
. By then, digital SLRs were becoming affordable and I switched to a Minolta 5D. The body was worthless with the broken capacitor, so I dumped it thinking I'd never look back - what a mistake!
Linear Mode
