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Thread: Nikkormat FT2

  1. #11
    marsbars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Nikon_F3HP View Post
    Which way are they off a stop? Is it overexposure or underexposure? Reason I ask, is that if it's the former, try a normal silver-oxide PX625 in there. Might bring the meter back into spec...

    -J
    OK, I sometimes get backasswards with over and under exposure when it comes to ISO/ASA. I just checked my FTn with the F3 and the F3 is set at ISO 400. To get the same exposure value I have to turn the ISO on the Nikkormat to ISO 100. So that is 2 stops but like I said I get confused if it is over or under exposing.
    "There is something about the mystery
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  2. #12
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    Under. So, the FTn needs repair work done to it. How's the other FTn in comparison to the F3?

    With respect to batteries, there is a silver-oxide battery made by Excell. Part number is S625PX. My F FTn has two of those installed.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F FTn, FM2n, Nikomat FT2x2 - all blk bodies
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  3. #13

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    Uh, no. If the speed of the film in the camera is 400, setting the film speed to 100 would result in overexposure of the film by 2 stops. With print film that actually shouldn't be a problem; slides would clearly show the overexposure.

  4. #14
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    Uh, yes. The meter on his FTn matches his F3, when the FTn is set to ISO 100 and the F3 is set to ISO 400. So, the FTn would be underexposing by two stops @ ISO 400.
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F FTn, FM2n, Nikomat FT2x2 - all blk bodies
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Nikon_F3HP View Post
    Under. So, the FTn needs repair work done to it. How's the other FTn in comparison to the F3?

    With respect to batteries, there is a silver-oxide battery made by Excell. Part number is S625PX. My F FTn has two of those installed.

    -J
    It reads about dead on but it is in much worse overall shape. Kind of a beater. I just use the ASA slide to tell the meter what it needs to know. As a matter of fact all of my meters on all of my cameras get adjusted. I once read a book that had a section that said to calibrate your meter to a neutral color or gray tone in bright sunlight. I want to say it was Shaw that wrote the section in the book. So I tend to do that from time to time. The first camera that I did that to was my F2 and all I shot in that for the longest time was slides and they came out perfectly exposed if I followed the meter suggestion. I don't think that I paid more than about 40 or so dollars for either of of the Nikkormats with lenses so Paying to repair it is just not really worth it. However my F2 split it's shutter last summer, and that one is worth fixing so it will be off to Sover Wong after the first of the year. Even that one is in user condition and not mint.
    "There is something about the mystery
    of what is on a roll of film that keeps
    me shooting, none of that digital
    instant gratification for me."

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by marsbars View Post
    It reads about dead on but it is in much worse overall shape. Kind of a beater. I just use the ASA slide to tell the meter what it needs to know. As a matter of fact all of my meters on all of my cameras get adjusted. I once read a book that had a section that said to calibrate your meter to a neutral color or gray tone in bright sunlight. I want to say it was Shaw that wrote the section in the book. So I tend to do that from time to time. The first camera that I did that to was my F2 and all I shot in that for the longest time was slides and they came out perfectly exposed if I followed the meter suggestion. I don't think that I paid more than about 40 or so dollars for either of of the Nikkormats with lenses so Paying to repair it is just not really worth it. However my F2 split it's shutter last summer, and that one is worth fixing so it will be off to Sover Wong after the first of the year. Even that one is in user condition and not mint.
    Wonder if it was Galen Rowell in his Mountain Light book. I remember reading the same thing. And, did the same with my original FTn, FT2, and FM2n bodies.

    With respect to the FTn's, it's not too hard to swap the cosmetic items between the two. Top cover is three screws, the disc that covers that hold down nut for the wind lever, the rewind crank hardware, a nut underneath it, and two wires that have to be desoldered from the PC contacts. If the nicer body's a late FTn, go ahead and swap the self-timer lever and wind lever over to the other body, so you gain the updates. If not, check around at camera repair shops for the updated parts. I wouldn't pay more than $10-$15 for them, though. $5 might be better. Should take you about 25 minutes or so from start to finish to get the top and bottom covers replaced. The mirror box would be more time. The "Another "This Old Nikon" project" thread on the manual focus Nikonians forum shows the FTn that I'm overhauling. Got it for $43.50, including shipping. Meter was supposedly dead, but, as mentioned in the thread, I found that the dent below the wind lever was shorting out the meter switch, preventing power from reaching the meter. Grabbed a bunch of parts for it @ the repair shop for $20, and started swapping things over. Now, it's fully functional, and looks decent. It's not mint, but it's better than KEH UG grade now. Went from a 426xxxx serial number to a 376xxxx number, tho. No biggie.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F FTn, FM2n, Nikomat FT2x2 - all blk bodies
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  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Nikon_F3HP View Post
    Under. So, the FTn needs repair work done to it. How's the other FTn in comparison to the F3?

    With respect to batteries, there is a silver-oxide battery made by Excell. Part number is S625PX. My F FTn has two of those installed.

    -J

    I've heard/seen varying reports on the Excell batteries. What's been your experience with them and over how many (i.e. sample size)?

  8. #18
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    It depends on the size, since they're usually repackaged batteries from other companies. Some are generic, some are obscure European/Russian brands, and some are name-brand batteries. The S625PX is also marked Supercell, IIRC. Comes in a lavender blister pack. I've had good luck with those, as well as with the Vinnic S76PX batteries, although, I prefer to use a Varta CR 1/3N in the bodies that can accept them. When my Nikomat FTn's V 625 U (Alkaline) finally kicks the bucket, I'll be swapping in a S625PX.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F FTn, FM2n, Nikomat FT2x2 - all blk bodies
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    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (for DPUG), 28/3.5 H, 35/2 O, 35-135/3.5-4.5 AF, 50/1.4 S, 50/1.4 SC, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro AIS, 85/1.8 K, 180/2.8 ED AIS

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  9. #19

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    For the Nikkormat FTN, head off to Costco and buy a pack of the blue tab hearing aid batteries, $13 for 30 here in Canada. The meter resopnse is very non-linear with the 625 alkaline battery unless you have the meter recalibrated or use a silver oxide battery and a diode to drop the voltage.

  10. #20

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    Just to remind everyone- The Nikkormat FT-2 and FT-3 use 1.5v Silver Oxide batteries. One solution is, as cheap as these cameras are now, to pick up an FT-2 or FT-3. ALSO: The ASA selector is redesigned to NOT break fingernails everytime you need to change it. They also add a hot-shoe for the flash. Otherwise, the FT-2 is the same as the older FT-N and the FT-3 uses AI coupling.

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