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Thread: Zenit TTL

  1. #1
    nick10's Avatar
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    Zenit TTL

    Hello,
    I am new member, and I would like to know more about the Zenit TTL that I bought before six months with a flash.
    1) Is this Zenit good;
    2)What must I take notice to use the Zenit;

    p.s forgive me if my english are not good

  2. #2
    Andy K's Avatar
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    The Zenit TTL is a good, solid camera.

    If the meter still works you may have problems finding a battery as they used a mercury battery which is no longer available.

    The lenses mount to the camera using an M42 screw fitting. Lenses from many different lens makers with this fitting are commonly available secondhand.

    If you use the camera to meter a scene make sure your eye is very close to the eyepiece as these cameras have a very sensitive meter and it has been known for them to under expose a scene because extra light entered through the eyepiece.

    Hope this helps.


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  3. #3
    nick10's Avatar
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    Thanks for your help.I have read in another forum that the meter is not reliable.Is it true;

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    H!

    Zenith was my first camera many, many years ago. Although its quite unsophisticated and crude I have great sentiment for it. I've never had any technical issues with it, but as with all Russian cameras that is a considerable risk.I've heard that if the Zenith name on pentaprism is written with Latin alphabet then you have export version which is regarded to be better built.
    The camera has very poor viewfinder coverage so you have to consider that while composing a shot.
    Be careful with film rewind at the end of the roll. The sprockets pulling the film by the perforation can easily shred it. If you fail to notice that you'll end up with some overlapping exposures on the last frame.

    Have fun with your new camera!

    I hope my English is also up to par.

  5. #5
    nick10's Avatar
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    ThanksI will be careful not to shred the film. Do you know if the meter is reliable;I ask again because I want to know if it worths to use the meter

  6. #6
    Andy K's Avatar
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    I have had no problems with the meter on my TTL. The only way to know for sure if the meter is good on your TTL is to shoot a roll of film using your camera's meter and look at the results.


    -----------My Flickr-----------
    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  7. #7
    nick10's Avatar
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    What lenses do you suggest me to buy;

  8. #8
    Andy K's Avatar
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    I started with a 28mm, a 50mm and a 135mm.


    -----------My Flickr-----------
    Anáil nathrach, ortha bháis is beatha, do chéal déanaimh.

  9. #9
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    If your Zenit came with the standard 50mm helios lens, use that lens until you feel that it's time to try something different. Because it is a camera that takes the 42mm screw-mount lenses, you could find a Pentax Takumar 50mm 1.4 and be quite happy with it. I once owned a Zenit E and another model, and though certainly crude by many standards, and lacking in a full range of shutter speeds, the cameras worked pretty well. One had a Selenium meter that was unreliable. Later, I purchased a new Kiev-19 which has a Nikon F-mount. It worked, but was not even close to a Nikkormat in terms of features and how it felt to use. Having said all this, if I were to buy another old M-42 camera, I'd choose a Spotmatic, Chinon, or Fujica over the stuff from the FSU any day.

    There are lots of online sites with info on the Zenits and Kievs and are a good place to check for further information.
    Mark O'Brien
    Ann Arbor, MI
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/mfobrien/

  10. #10

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    To elaborate on something said earlier: When shooting a test roll for judging the meter, slide film can be helpful because it's got less dynamic range than print films; thus, it's more sensitive to metering problems. OTOH, metering techniques for slide and print film are different -- for slide film you're generally advised to meter for the highlights, whereas for print film it's best to meter for the shadows. You might want to throw in a test of aperture and shutter speed calibration by shooting the same scene with equivalent but different apertures and shutter speeds -- for instance, 1/60s at f/8, 1/125s at f/5.6, 1/250s at f/4, etc. (You'll obviously need to find a scene with appropriate light to do this, given the film you're using.) The resulting slides (or negatives; don't judge by prints made from negatives) should appear to be identically exposed. If they aren't, then you've probably got a shutter speed problem. (A sticky or poorly calibrated aperture could also be causing the problem, though.)

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