there are mechanical watches same as mechanical cameras. Mine is 50 years old and still ticking. I also have 50 year old cameras still ticking.
To your question there is nothing like an F2. cheers
__________________ Mihai Costea
“To me, every hour of the light and dark is a miracle”( Walt Whitman-Miracles)
I would also go for a Nikon F or F2 with a plain prism and a Selenium cell meter. I understand your problem, I once worked for a company who was doing a heating and air conditioning work on a new coal mine, and the manager in charge of the contract told me he wasn't allowed on site because the pacemaker on his heart was battery powered !
What range of lens are you looking for. If all you need is standard set such as a 28, 50, and short tele an alternaitve is a Kodak Retina IV SLR with a built in Selenim meter, I have a Retina IIIC, the meter is spot on.
Nikon FM or FM2. Unless you find a good deal an F or F2 will run lots of money, since those are too collectible. You can add a Sekonic L-398 to your kit, and have a reliable meter that does not need batteries.
Plain prisms for the F2 have become a collectors' fetish and prices are high.
However, busted early model photomics for the F2 are a dime a dozen. Just leave the battery out.
For this sort of location - where equipment is likely to get banged about or covered in glop - it may be prudent to buy the cheapest camera you can get away with, including a spare body or two. Early Nikkormats with busted meters may the be the cheapest thing going.
As for light meters, get an old Norwood Director or Sekonic 398(?) that is known to be accurate. They can take quite a knocking. I have found Westons to be rather fragile in comparison.
there are mechanical watches same as mechanical cameras. Mine is 50 years old and still ticking. I also have 50 year old cameras still ticking.
To your question there is nothing like an F2. cheers
Wow, analogue watches, I'd almost forgotten.
Actually I don't wear watches or jewelry because it can get caught and drag me into the machinery.
__________________
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"The photograph itself doesn't interest me. I want only to capture a minute part of reality."
Henri Cartier-Bresson
I would also go for a Nikon F or F2 with a plain prism and a Selenium cell meter. I understand your problem, I once worked for a company who was doing a heating and air conditioning work on a new coal mine, and the manager in charge of the contract told me he wasn't allowed on site because the pacemaker on his heart was battery powered !
Yep, I worked in coal mines some years back before MSHA got serious. It is way too much "fun" watching your bosses use their gas meters to see if it was safe to light their cigarettes underground.
__________________
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"The photograph itself doesn't interest me. I want only to capture a minute part of reality."
Henri Cartier-Bresson
Plain prisms for the F2 have become a collectors' fetish and prices are high.
However, busted early model photomics for the F2 are a dime a dozen. Just leave the battery out.
For this sort of location - where equipment is likely to get banged about or covered in glop - it may be prudent to buy the cheapest camera you can get away with, including a spare body or two. Early Nikkormats with busted meters may the be the cheapest thing going.
As for light meters, get an old Norwood Director or Sekonic 398(?) that is known to be accurate. They can take quite a knocking. I have found Westons to be rather fragile in comparison.
Thanks for the lead on the Sekonic.
Actually the camera will stay clean. If we are making a mess it won't be out.
__________________
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"The photograph itself doesn't interest me. I want only to capture a minute part of reality."
Henri Cartier-Bresson
I have a two-year-old Gruen mechanical watch. Wasn't even very expensive (around $50). Nice timepiece.
Rolexes are mechanical too if you can afford them.
Do you absolutely need "T"? "B" works too but you need a cable release to hold the shutter open (no biggie). If B will work, your list of possibilities:
Nikkormat FS (rare, no meter so no possibility of using a battery)
Nikkormat FT
Nikkormat FTn
Nikkormat FT2
Nikkormat FT3
Nikon FM
Nikon FM2/FM2n
Nikon F
Nikon F2
Cameras that use batteries normally but will work without them at all shutter speeds:
Nikon FM3a
I'm not sure I agree that buying an old selenium meter is wise. The meters lose sensitivity after many years. You can still buy a new one (there are a couple of different brands available) at reasonable prices that will function for 20 years or so if you take care of them. Bear in mind that selenium cell meters are nowhere nearly as sensitive in low light as battery-powered meters are.
__________________
Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
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