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 Originally Posted by Karl K
Marty Forscher, the legendary camera technician and inventor, told me that the Nikon F2 was and is the most durable 35mm camera ever built. He said that if he were stuck on a desert island and could have only one camera, the F2 would be his choice. You could put up aluminum siding on your house using the F2 as a hammer.
I am not one to baby my equipment, after all they are simply tools, but I haven't used a camera as a hammer yet . Knowing the F2 can take a good bit of abuse is reassuring.
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"The mind that opens to a new idea never returns to its original size." Albert Einstein
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Mark, the F2 is the one I'd go for, with the F being a close second.
-J
Always under construction. Currently:
Nikon: F5, F4, F2AS x2, F, FM2n, Nikomat FT2, FTn*, D200 (yes, off-topic) - cameras marked with a * are chrome - the rest are black
Lenses (Nikkor unless otherwise marked): 24/2.8 AF, 28/3.5 H, 35/2 O & AIS, 50/1.8 AF x2, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/1.4 S, 50/1.4 AI, 85/1.8 K, 135/3.5 Q, 200/4 Q, Samyang 18-28/4-4.5
My FB - My flickr stream
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Occurs to mention that anything sparking at all-- say a chrome plated camera dropped on an industrial steel floor or truck bed could be fatal in an explosive environment. Now, I'm not 100% certain but strongly suspect that a chrome body would spark, even if the chrome is over plated over a brass or stainless base. This seems to me more dangerous in an explosive environment than a little 1.5V DC battery arcing at switch-on. (This is the reason for brass wrenches and hammers, no?).
One could choose a painted brass black body early F2, but even then, strap lugs are still chromed on most cameras.
Rules is rules and no one may challenge you if a specific prohibition isn't clearly specified, but personally I'd rather not blow up, than not break a rule.
All that said, the Pentax LX would be a great choice outside of the brand.
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Good thought.
We are not to the point or possibility of using brass tools in our work. We use chrome all the time.
The color doesn't fix the issue. Black wrenches can spark just the same. Only truly brass tools fix the issue you bring up.
Originally Posted by Pupfish
Occurs to mention that anything sparking at all-- say a chrome plated camera dropped on an industrial steel floor or truck bed could be fatal in an explosive environment. Now, I'm not 100% certain but strongly suspect that a chrome body would spark, even if the chrome is over plated over a brass or stainless base. This seems to me more dangerous in an explosive environment than a little 1.5V DC battery arcing at switch-on. (This is the reason for brass wrenches and hammers, no?).
One could choose a painted brass black body early F2, but even then, strap lugs are still chromed on most cameras.
Rules is rules and no one may challenge you if a specific prohibition isn't clearly specified, but personally I'd rather not blow up, than not break a rule.
All that said, the Pentax LX would be a great choice outside of the brand.
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"The mind that opens to a new idea never returns to its original size." Albert Einstein
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The Nikon FM3a is a top of the line full manual camera. It does use a battery but only for metering and can be removed. The FM3a can be a bit pricey for it's age but it is the best in it's class.
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The F2 has an "extended" "T" mode where the self-timer can be used to time the shutter. It allows up to 10 second timed exposures. The collar around the shutter release has a "T" setting that used the self timer to hold the shutter open. One of its more obscure features.
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Originally Posted by Joe Grodis
The Nikon FM3a is a top of the line full manual camera. It does use a battery but only for metering and can be removed. The FM3a can be a bit pricey for it's age but it is the best in it's class.
The FM3a has both electronic and manual shutter control, so with batteries installed, the batteries power the meter and the shutter. I purchased one because of that feature but have yet to use the camera without batteries. Any of the FM series in excellent conidtion would suffice. The newer the camera, the less possible problems. Good luck!-Dick
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I have shot both my FM3a and F2-AS without batteries and gotten great results mentally calculating exposure. Its really not that hard and print film is pretty forgiving if your a stop off. For the features you were looking for, I would advise any variant of the F2. They can be found a lot cheaper than the FM3a and generally are in user condition so you wouldnt feel bad about adding a mark or two getting on it as you are shooting. The F2 really is IMO the finest example of mechanical SLR cameras. It feels like a fine swiss watch. Shooting with mine is a complete joy and I find myself using it 60% of the time more than my FM3a simply for the way it feels in my hand. Oh and it features 100% view finder also which is nice.
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