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  1. #11
    kombizz's Avatar
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    I prefer to have the titanium with honeycomb pattern.
    I was born and brought up in Iran, a beautiful country full of history.
    k o m b i z z

  2. #12

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    My original FM purchased in 1979 and my FM3a both have aluminum shutters and both have had no problems.-Dick

  3. #13
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    Net Legend has it that the very early FM2 w/ the titanium shutter had a bushing that wore out if the shutter was fired repeatedly at 1/500 or 1/4000 (???), and that the blades would crumple when the bushing failed. It also seems if the bushing hasn't failed yet, it isn't going to. Prudent advice would be to just stay away from NIB early FM2's.
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  4. #14
    Lee L's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas Lindan View Post
    ... the blades would crumple when the bushing failed.
    Crumpled/bent blades is what I saw in three early cameras with the titanium shutter that failed. Looked like wrecked Venetian blinds, and like the shutter had hung on one side and kept moving on the other.

    Nikon USA repair refused to acknowledge anything other than customer abuse on the three I dealt with, and the shop owner forced the Nikon rep to personally cover these and any such future failures before he would restock cameras with this shutter. This was probably early days if there was such a systemic problem. We sold large quantities of these cameras, and had all three failures in for repair within a span of a couple of months. Nikon policy on repairs for this shutter may have changed later.

    I'd agree with Nicholas that any of these shutters that have lasted this long would be unlikely to have the problem.

    Lee

  5. #15

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    Titanium curtains are stronger but they are very easy to (at least) wrinkle. The blades in most modern copal shutters (vertical multi blade shutters) are plastic in some models. Copal (they've been making this type of shutter for decades, as found in old Nikkormats) shutters in Olympus IS-1, 2, and 3, the blades are plastic. The blades will last, it's the RIVETS that hold the blades in that may give way first. Camera comes in with blades pushed in by "fingerpokin'" can be put back on track, then the creases in the shutter blades REMOVED by heating the blade area with a hair dryer. John, www.zuiko.com

  6. #16

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    Some people are referring to FM2n's with titanium shutters. I was under the impression the 'N' was added to denote the aluminum shutter?
    and putting it in the model designation would imply an advantage. that said I have an FM2 and an FE2 and have never had any Shutter problems.

  7. #17
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    Nope, the alu shutter came out about 5 years after the FM2n was introduced. Beginning with serial numbers in the 753xxxxx (and 773xxxxx) block for black bodies, and somewhere in the 76xxxxx (and 78xxxxx) serial number block for chrome bodies. FM2n's in the 725-729xxxx, 73xxxxx, 74xxxxx, 750-752xxxxx, 760-763xxxxx?, 770-772xxxxx, and low 78xxxxx serial blocks all have the FE2/FA style titanium curtains. Early FM2's, 724xxxx and lower, have a slightly different honeycomb pattern on the titanium curtains.

    The Copal Square S shutter was first used in the 1962 Nikkorex F/Ricoh Singlex TLS bodies. They were also used in the Konica Autoreflex T series, through at least the TC model.

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  8. #18
    Lee L's Avatar
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    FWIW, I wouldn't panic about the shutter, even if you have an early titanium version. I would guess that at the time we had 3 in for repair at the shop I worked in, that would account for well under 2% of the volume we had sold up to that point, and those cameras belonged to photographers who did a lot of shooting. The one that really focused our attention on the problem belonged to a wedding photographer.

    Lee

  9. #19

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    John, What is/are the other differances between FM2 and FM2N?

  10. #20

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    http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography.../fm2/index.htm

    Not much difference other than the slightly faster flash sync speed and the availability of the aluminum shutter. The FM2n doesn't actually even have an "n" in it's name on the body.

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