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  1. #1

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    I'm new to this, so be easy on me! Using my trusty Minolta x-370 and an Achiever flash indoors at my kid's sporting event, the shots came out half normal and half very dark, almost right down the middle of the pics. Any suggestions?......

  2. #2
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    That's the old X-sync problem. You set the shutter speed too fast. Everyone's done it at least once, I think. There should be a shutter speed indicated by an "X" or a lightening bolt, or maybe just a regular shutter speed around 1/60 sec. marked for flash sync.
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  3. #3
    fingel's Avatar
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    It sounds like you weren't shooting at the correct shutter speed to sync with your flash. I have an old Minlota XGM and the sync speed is 1/60 and is highlited in red on the dial. Check your manual for the correct flash sync shutter speed, or look for the number that is a different color on the dial.

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the advice, but I had it on 1/60. The flash unit has all kinds of settings on it. Stuff like TTL TW Mn Sm, and a slide bar with W2 W N S T. I appreciate the help. I definately need all the help I can get...

  5. #5
    blansky's Avatar
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    I believe it has to be in the camera and the flash synching as has been stated. The settings on the flash unit would only affect the amount of light on the whole image.

    The curtain shutter is not synching and moving too fast leaving half the image unexposed or with not enough light.


    Michael McBlane

  6. #6
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbowyer68rr
    Thanks for the advice, but I had it on 1/60. The flash unit has all kinds of settings on it. Stuff like TTL TW Mn Sm, and a slide bar with W2 W N S T. I appreciate the help. I definately need all the help I can get...
    One clue here ... "TTL" would stand for "Through The Lens" -- indicating that there is a sensor *in the camera* that would measure the amount of light provided by the flash unit, and turn it off when the proper amount reached ... or should have reached, the film plane.

    I would ask one question immediately ... is this "Achiever" (as I have heard of it, a fairly "new" and sophisticated unit) compatible with the internal flash system of your camera? Was it a model specifically dedicated to the Minolta model you have?

    I can understand the "TTL" setting - that is fairly universal - but the others are more cryptic. "W" settings could possibly be for use with a (W)inder, where the flash output is lowered to permit fast recycling, a necessity for rapid sequence work.
    "TW" - I would guess that could indicate a (T)hyristor setting (controlled by a sensor in the flash unit itself) at a reduced output for a (W)inder.
    "Mn" - a guess would be something to do with (M)anual - not controlled by any sensor, but relying on manually set aperture for the exposure.

    The rest ... I would be farther and farther out on a limb in guessing.

    Where, specifically were all these settings?

    Do you have a manual for the flash unit?
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by dbowyer68rr
    Thanks for the advice, but I had it on 1/60. The flash unit has all kinds of settings on it. Stuff like TTL TW Mn Sm, and a slide bar with W2 W N S T. I appreciate the help. I definately need all the help I can get...
    I have an older Achiever flash and I'm guessing the W2 W N S T could be for the flash head setting Wideest , Wide, Normal, S?, Tele... as mine has a similar thing although not as many choices (W,N,T I think). If you can pull the flash out and it reveals similar numbers, I'm sure that they will corelate to that slide bar. The other clue is that when you do that, it changes the distances it reckons it can achieve correct exposure.

    Don't know what the TTL, etc ones are other than Ed's logic sounds on target somewhat. Mine actually has another switch which can only be seen/set when the flash head is in the vertical position, and that sets the flash to suit either Nikon, Canon, Pentax or Minolta (or variations of). If you've got a flatbed scanner, scan the back of the flash and upload the pic in the 'others' gallery and we might be able to add some more confusion

  8. #8

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    ohh, i forgot to add... I have an old Nikon FE that should flash sync at 1/125 but I think that speed must be fast as whenever I set it to 1/125 I get the black section, so I try to remember to set it to 1/60. You could try 1/30 or possibly even 1/15... If the flash is doing all the work (ie there's not much ambient light contributing to the exposure) you'll be ok with camera shake as the flash is much faster and you'll still get sharp pics (asuming your focusing is correct of course)



 

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