It would be great if you could post this in the camera building and repair forum, where others are more likely to look for repair information.
Originally Posted by fmajor
Good morning, Charles;
For information and comparison, Garry's normal charge for a CLA is about $45.00. As you have heard, most people have been quite satisfied with the work from Garry's shop.
He also does repair work. For example, he is familiar with and does replace the capacitors in the Minolta X-700 circuit when required. I also believe that he does a conversion on the SR-T light meter circuit to make it compatible with the silver-oxide batteries.
For additional comparison, my local camera repair shop normally charges about $120.00 for a 35 mm CLA.
Ralph Javins, Latte Land, Washington
When they ask you; "How many Mega Pixels you got in your camera?"
just tell them; "I use activated silver bromide crystals tor my image storage media."
Not every repairman can get the parts he needs from all camera makers.
E.i. if I want Rolleiparts I get them, if I need a Nikon name/type plate I don't.
That's why some camera repairmen do CLA's only.
Replacing the broken film winder spool is not the problemm, getting the part is.
At the risk of sounding stupid, what exactly is a CLA? I need to have my x700 fixed, the shutter does not advance when the lever is moved, and I am not sure how it was broken (IE bought it with a 50/1.7 and 75-200/4.5 for the lenses). If you think that Garry's camera would be better, as I may not need parts, I will definitely send it there.
CLA means clean lube and adjust. Most cameras that need service dont have any broken parts, just gummed up mechanism. If it needs parts most repairers charge a bit extra for the parts
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Originally Posted by Ralph Javins
Don't forget, the $120-$138 charge that Doug charges is for a full overhaul of the body. I'm actually having the black Nikomat FT2 overhauled by him at the moment. New mirror box, J screen, possibly a different top cover, and some other goodies. By the time he's done, I'll be $138+tax poorer, but I'll have an FT2 that functions like new.
APUG: F4, F3P, F2ASx2, F FTn, FM2n, Nikomat FT2x2 - all blk bodies
Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (for DPUG), 28/3.5 H, 35/2 O, 35-135/3.5-4.5 AF, 50/1.4 S, 50/1.4 SC, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro AIS, 85/1.8 K, 180/2.8 ED AIS
- My flickr stream
Sorry to be away so long from the thread; thanks to all. Will have to decide whether to put the camera in a box leaving it for my kids to fix 30 years from now, when it will be truly a relic, or fixing it myself now (despite the risk that I won't use it much and it will collect new dust and grime).
This is a month late
and maybe a dollar short---but hopefully you haven't thrown the camera out the window yet.
I'm guessing the camera has been stored for an extended period of time with the shutter cocked.This really beats the heck out of the springs,but should be an easy fix.--- remove the bottom of the camera,---with the back of the camera facing you,you will see a large brass gear left of center.Next to this gear are two smaller gears with click stops. turn each one of these small gears 5 clicks clockwise---then with the back opened fire the shutter and make sure the shutter closes all the way and the mirror resets--if not turn the gears 5 more clicks and try again.--hope that helps.
I just did that thingy with my SRT-101 last nite. It works great and my shutter speeds are also much more accurate.
My mirror on one of my recently acquired 102s was doing the same thing. I replaced the foam on the mirror damper (it had become gooey) and it hasn't done it since.