Need setting suggestions
I was at an awards banquet tonight for 4H. The room was bright, flourecent lights, and my light meter on my camera would not show the little "o" unless I was at an extremly low shutter speed (2 or 4). I don't like to do hand held shots with the shutter speed set less than 60. I had the aperature set as wide as it would go. I ended up just shooting all the pics with the shutter at 60 and the aperature at 22. They all showed a "-" from the light meter. (I shoot with a Nikon FM2). What kind of setting will work in a flourecent lit room? I havn't got the roll developed yet and am not confident that any will turn out, but I'm just curious what would work best the next time I'm faced with this situation (we do a lot of awards, workshops, competitions, sports inside so I'm sure the next time will be soon.) Thanks a head of time for any help I can get! I'm thinking I'm going to have to find a photography class to understand all the settings on my camera! It is fun to learn though! Lori
Lori, using 400 ASA film under fluorescent lighting, I generally use 1/30 at f2.8. If you are using 100 ASA film that would translate to 1/8 at f2.8
You haven't mentioned the speed of the film you were using, or whether it was colour or B&W or B&W film with colour negative processing.
I don't believe that your chances of getting some really good negatives are that great, however you never know.
You mention that you shot with the aperture wide open, this should mean that you were possibly in the f2.8 to f3.5 range, not f22. If indeed you did shoot at 1/60 @ f22 then the negatives will be very under exposed.
It's been a while since I've shot colour, but I found Fuji 1600 didn't look too bad under fluorescent lighting, and has enough speed to shoot indoors without flash. From the sounds of it, you should ask your lab to 'push process' 2 or 3 stops for you, or as much as they dare, and hope for the best.
f/22 is more like 'wide CLOSED' than open. The lower the numerical f/stop, the more light gets through. F/4, for examplle, will let five times ('stops') more light reach the film. That will be compounded by the drastically short exposure time.
Unfortunately, film that much underexposed is pretty much a disaster. I'd be ~ surprised to see any images - at all.
High speed film - ISO 800 or 1600 - , or +, is NOT 'bad stuff'. While grain and sundry other characteristics may not satisfy the tastes of those among us who are anally driven to produce 'exhibiton grade' (whatever they are) prints, they are well suited for low light situations, banquets, sports, street photography.
Buy a couple of rolls and give it a try.
Last edited by Ed Sukach; 01-17-2009 at 02:10 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: Minor !#*$ spell error.
Ed Sukach, FFP.
Fuji tends to be more forgiving under florescent light since they introduced their "4th" layer technology years ago.
Heavily sedated for your protection.
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Okay! I really don't know what I'm talking about! I was using kodak 400 color film. I guess I've got to learn how to use this camera and what all the setting mean. I think I'll start looking for an adult Ed class. I've read and read and I don't understand! I've got some good shots purely by accident! I just realized there is an exposure discussion thread area also! I guess I'll go read through there! Thanks, Lori
Last edited by lorirfrommontana; 01-17-2009 at 01:10 PM. Click to view previous post history.