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  1. #11
    eddym's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post

    2F/2F: If I follow you correctly, I think you're saying that hand-held I can shoot the 35/2 at 1/30 compared to 1/60 for the 50/1.4. A convincing argument until you follow it through to its logical conclusion: the 35/1.4 implies the difference between 1/15 and 1/30 in even lower light.
    It wasn't a Nikon, it was a Rollei SL35E with a Zeiss 35mm f1.4, but years ago I made a shot in an alley on Old San Juan on Kodachrome 64 at f1.4 @ 1/15. It was gorgeous. I don't have a scan of it, or I would post it. But yes, if you have steady hands, good breath control, and can maybe brace yourself, 1/15 handheld with a 35mm f1.4 lens should be doable.
    Eddy McDonald
    www.fotoartes.com
    Eschew defenestration!

  2. #12

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    I'd say that the 35mm 1.4 is well deserving of the Legend status. If you get to know its unique imaging properties you'll know what I mean, it works well as a general 35mm lens when you stop it down, incredibly sharp actually. When you use it closer in, at between 1.4 and 2 the narrow plane of sharpness with the quantity and quality of the bokeh makes for compelling images. I have 3 of the older N and N.C. versions, the ones with the radioactive elements, and while the color images need a bit more correction the B&W images are brilliant. I've tested several of the Ais versions with mine, and the newer Ais version seems to have a bit more crunchy look to the sharpness, whereas the older optical version seems smoother in its sharpness. Subtle, but if you do more B&W get a converted N or N.C, if you do more color get an Ais. Nikon has a good 'story' about this lens at http://imaging.nikon.com/products/im...kkor/n27_e.htm
    Note that the changes in optical formula is very subtle at the end, Nikon had to change out the radioactive glass.

  3. #13
    stealthman_1's Avatar
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    I've had mine (AIS) for almost a year now. I love it. Is it the best lens in my bag, no, but it is the most versatile. It's permanently mounted on my FA which I carry everywhere in my vehicle. It has good bokeh, doesn't overwhelm a small body, but has enough weight to balance well, focuses nicely and in poor light gives you 1/15th vs. 1/8th with the f2. That's the difference between getting a shot and not.
    Clown Kachina shot at 1/15th, hand held on Tri-X, stand developed in Rodinal.
    Last edited by stealthman_1; 02-21-2009 at 03:25 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14
    Lukas_87's Avatar
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    a friend of mine, Tomas Szepe, has written something about this lens on fstop's discussion forums (someone was asking about zeiss distagon 2/35)... i will try to translate it there:
    "I use nikkor 1.4/35 AI (7 bladed aperture) as my "main lens" for about 5 years and I love it. You can see some internal reflections and coma when shoot fully open (curiously mudding edges of very bright subjects and points and looses contrast - it's easily seen on my last photo in workshop http://www.fstop.cz/e/85.szepe/untitled/ ) but usualy the conditions when I need to shoot at f/1.4 are so that the extra graphic effect is handy stopped to f/2 the lens aren't doing that anymore. From f/2.8 it's deadly sharp, especially stopped to f/4-5.6 where it also have acceptable bokeh when shooting at conventional distance (1-2 meters).
    http://​www.​mir.​com.​my/​rb/​photography/​companies/​nikon/​nikkoresources/​35mmnikkor/​35mm14.​htm"
    link to his portfolio http://www.fstop.cz/e/szepe/

  5. #15

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    It is the only Nikon lens I own two of. I keep one at work and one at home. I love them!

  6. #16

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    Well, I bought one. I managed to find a fairly cheap example with a slightly tighter than normal focusing barrel, selling my 45mm f2.8P gave me a little more than 2/3 the funds I needed. I shot a roll with it yesterday and it certainly does seem to be a versatile lens, bigger and heaver than the 45mm of course, but fast and it focuses quite close. I'm going to make some prints this weekend, so far first impressions are good.

  7. #17

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    What version did you get? I've done a fair bit of CLA on this lens, Ais and N versions, and the internal construction allows for (some) adjustments to the focus. It may just need some Nikon grease or perhaps somewhere along the line it took a whack and one of the helicoids is out of round. Generally speaking the older N versions were firmer, the Ais versions could be very smooth (worn or 'broken in' is quite slick) and the Ai version could really really be stiff. The Ai version was the only one I passed on, hey I have 3! and that one had a bit more wear on the glass than I prefer and the focus was really tight, and from what I know about what's waiting inside an Ai series I passed. I still wonder if I should have gotten it, it was like $125 or so, not bad really.

  8. #18

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    It's the Ai version, the serial number indicates 1977-'81 as it's manu date. When I first got it I thought that is stiff, but after playing with it, it doesn't seem that bad. It would benefit from a CLA, but it's not urgent.

  9. #19

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    Ok then, I figured it was the Ai version. If it seems as if it loosening up, then don't CLA it until it is absolutely needed, like if it feels dry or rough or grinding. Just give it a good workout focussing while watching TV or something, and it will loosen to the point were it will be easier to use. Lots of those top-tier pro Ai lenses didn't get the workout they expected/needed and basically have little to no wear on the internals, and when new were slightly more firm than the F Nikkor series after time the lube tended to collect at the ends of the focus limits, thus making it even more tighter. Trust me, I've been inside them ( I do my own CLA for lens, 12+ years, for myself and others) and had a few lenses where they were basically alright but I thought a good CLA would do them good. In the process of CLA, the additional complexity of the Ai series vs the Ais or F nikkor made the potential for 'complications' to the disassembly, which then could lead to additional efforts to get the focus smooth. On some lenses, the extra effort made to do a CLA made the focus only *marginally* better, and in a couple of cases the lens would have been better off if left alone. I learned my lesson, and those Ai lenses in my stable that are that way but in Nikon Factory condition I leave alone and deal with the stiffness, like I said sometimes if the pro lens is in excellent cosmetic condition then working it out improves it.
    Enjoy, its a great lens, and do read the Nikon article I posted above, the point about the lenses ability in relation to the type of photographic material used is an excellent observation.

  10. #20

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    I missed your post above with that article, I'll read it now. Thanks for the tips also, I was thinking it might ease up a little if I just spent some time twisting the focusing barrel. There's no dryness or grinding feeling, just tightness, it seems like it's tighter going toward infinity than it is the other way, but that may be more to do with my muscle strength! I shot a roll of colour with it today and I'll take it into my local high street lab tomorrow. I got a quote for a CLA from a very good UK repair place for £75, but I think I'll wait and see if it improves with use. The optics and cosmetics are perfect so there's no real hurry to send it off, especially as Spring is just around the corner here and I'm starting to shoot more now.

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