The blind covering the match-needle window is probably sticking. Try moving the shutter speed dial back and forth from "A" a few times. That may clear up the problem.
I will give that a go. Knowing that there's a mask for the thing helps me understand what might be happening.
Originally Posted by KOG
Okey doke, so jiggering it back and forth does not reveal the match-needle scale. I am going to call Adorama after passover and see what they will do.
just to be sure, you are changing the shutter speed dial on the top of the camera, right?
On the AE Finder FN, there is a projection or arm that extends over the shutter speed dial. On the underside of this projection is a black spring loaded pin that controls which scale is displayed in the viewfinder. When you set the shutter speed to "A", the raised chrome pin on the shutter speed dial (between 8 seconds and the flash symbol) pushes the finder's black pin towards the finder. This moves the slides which hide the vertical aperture ("match-needle") scale and expose the horizontal shutter speed ("aperture priority") scale. When you turn the shutter speed dial from "A" to 1/2000, the finder's pin should pop out, so it sounds like the pin on your finder may be stuck. Remove your AE Finder FN and check to see if the black pin on the projecting arm moves in and out freely. If not, the spring may be broken or binding. Try working the pin. If you can manually pull the pin out and re-install your finder, you should see the vertical match-needle scale in the viewfinder.
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I have 140, I think. Collecting them since I was a kid and all in working condition. I love film and classic cameras.
Originally Posted by FilmOnly
One more problem I found. The rewind crank will spin on its head. I ran a roll through it this evening when there was a truely beautiful sunset. I thought I had the roll rewound but when I opened the back there was the film dying in the lamplight. I thought I had the rewind button pushed down but apparently not. After I tried the rewind button again I was able to rewind it but I dont know how much film I lost in the process =[
Is this normal?
Once I neglected to push in that little button. The rewind crank moved harder than it should have, and got stiffer and stiffer, till it suddenly gave and the rewind action was effortless and smooth.
Of course, when I opened the camera back and saw the film still on the take-up reel, mocking me, I realized what I'd done. I've not done it since.
I am beginning to resent being referred to as 'half-fast'.
Whatever that's supposed to mean.
I have noticed with my F1 that I have to keep the button firmly pressed all the way through the roll-up.
Originally Posted by darinwc
I have owned both F1n & New F1, ( or as I like to call it New F1N, that covers all the bases ). You will notice with Canon's Mark II, nonsense, it still can't name a camera worth a damn.
O.K. If you have a camera with an AE prism, you have a New F1. The New F1, with AE prism comes standard with an A screen. With the normal prism it's a P Screen. This was explained above,so I won't duplicate it here.
The AE prism, when the shutter is locked on " A ", gives you Aperture Priority, controlled from the
With the addition of a winder or Motor, you can have Shutter Priority, by locking the aperture dial on " A " & controlling the exposure by the Shutter Speed dial.
If you put both of the camera's shutter & aperture dials on " A ". You get an Unknown Error. It won't tell you, but they never designed it to work that way & everything will be under exposed. It
should have given yo a Program Mode, but it's a Pro camera, which didn't have such things.
Get the Motor Drive FN. It gives you a faster advance speed, plus the added benefit of Motorized rewind. It's really a joy, to watch the rewind knob spin around unassisted.
The Original F1 Motors never had this feature.
My biggest problem was that I was having the Shutter Priority underexposure everything. It took a total of 9 months to figure this out including Canon in Irvine, CA., U.S.A.. They would take the Motor off & test the camera, which would test fine. Only very methodical testing by me, made the problem apparent.
One final Caveat. NEVER get an Olympic Canon New F1. These can be determined by the gold instead of white lettering. These were among the 1st New F1's. I traded a regular New F1 for it & the Gold one ate batteries something fierce. I know of a friend that had the same problem & it soured him on Canon.
The thing is this problem can be corrected on a White One, if it happens it's rare, once fixed no problem. but it could never be corrected on the Gold one.
Unless, of course everyone was lying to me & never bothered to look at it. But I had already paid for the repair twice, an independent & Canon Irvine, CA., U.S.A..
I finally dumped them all for Canon EOS film bodies which I shoot to this day.
I won't bore you with which.
Last edited by Vanishing Point Ent.; 04-19-2009 at 02:50 AM. Click to view previous post history.