Nikon FM3A

[Juraj Kovacik]

I'm thinking about buying new Nikon FM3A with basic nikor 50/1.8. I've read some articles on the net and it looks as a perfect camera for me. any sugestion why NOT to buy this camera?

thanks JK

[Nige]

um, you can't focus to save yourself... you like relying on batteries... you want something big and heavy that looks "Real Pro"... You don't want to eventualy buy a 105/2.5 legend...

no, can't help you there

(One day I'll replace, actually add to, my aging FE with a FM3a to partner my FM2n)

[jbj]

I have no reservations with recommending this setup. When I shoot 135 I use an FM3a/ 50 1.8/ 105 2.8 setup.

Positives:
Match-needle metering
1/4000 top shutter speed
All manual
Metal body
Inexpensive batteries that last a LONG time
DOF preview
Self timer
manually set film speed
exposure compensation
ad nauseum...

The only drawbacks I have heard of:
-People who wear glasses
may have a hard time with the viewfinder, but I wear glasses occasionally and never have had a problem.
-Dark viewfinder can make it harder to take shots under low light, but it does have AE lock so this is not an issue for me.
-Slowest manually set shutter speed of 1 sec., I would prefer to have longer speeds as I don't like to use the aperture priority mode, but a cable release works fine with the second hand on my watch.
-Aperture priority mode, to me there is no use for this.
-A spot metering mode would be nice instead of aperture priority mode (useless). But CW metering is really easy and actually forces me to 'work' more for the shot, to move around and get close to meter etc.
-DX film speed settting is useless.


Hope this helps!

[pierre]

I have an FM3a. I can't think of a better choice in a 35mm SLR out of any on today's market. It's a classic in every way. I wear glasses, but I take them off to look in the viewfinder. All I had to do was to buy the proper diopter correction lens for the viewfinder (easily obtained from B&H and other places). The reward is a truly wonderful 80%+ magnification view, far better than the tiny picture you get with the high eyepoint viewfinders (which is achieved in many cameras by reducing the magnification). An FM and an FE rolled into one camera - how can you go wrong?

BTW, I absolutely love the implementation of match needle metering in the FM3a. The meter needle combined with the blue "paddle" (the other needle, in other words) that indicates the set shutter speed is brilliant. Get an FM3a, and put some manual AI Nikkors on it. The camera plus these lenses feels so much better than all the plastic we have nowadays. And you don't even need a manual - just the aperture ring, the shutter speed dial and the focus. It's as close to heaven as photography gets.

[Juraj Kovacik]

thanks all for your opinion. it looks I'm going to buy.

today I have a 20 year old Practica / relativly good East Germany camera with 1.4 Carl Zeis... but leans is not absolutely fit today and mechanics of camera is in a bad state. btw it has needle exposure meter...

Juro

Bratislava, Slovakia

[pierre]

You should be able to get some good used Nikkor AI lenses for it. I got all of mine on ebay. Look for ones that have good glass, but aren't perfect cosmetically. Most people pass these up, and yet they are terrific lenses, before the plastic era. They are the perfect complement to an FM3a.

[nikon]

i wear glasses and don't have any problems with an fm3 and an fm2 ( go for it )

[kkranis]

Why not try finding a minty FM2n instead. Less money for a really fantastic camera. I just upgraded from the FM to the FM2n and I do not think I need anything else for a camera body. 1/4000 top shutter speed, DOF preview and the classic center weighted Nikon metering. For the same money as a new FM3, you can get the FM2n (used but in a minty condition), a Nikkor 50mm F/1.8 and a Sigma 20mm F/1.8 (that's my bunch...)

However, if you really need AP mode, the FM3 is the way to go.

[DrPhil]

I think I would still go with an fm3a over an fm2n. Here's why:

TTL flash is really handy. I've got a SB-30 flash the size of a deck of playing cards. On a recent trip to mammoth cave I took two of these little flashes and my fm3a. What a cool setup. The flashes even work as slaves. My whole setup, fm3a, two sb-30s, and a 50mm f1.4 fit in a waist pack.

The meter display in the fm3a is far superior. The fm2n has a simple +o- setup. The fm3a has a needle that moves across a range of shutter speeds. In AE mode, which the fm2n doesn't have, you simply match the needle to the shutter speed you want. In manual mode you simply match two needle across the shutter speed you want. From my explanation this may sound difficult; however, once you look through the viewfinder you'll realize that the whole thing is so intuitive. I would pick the fm3a just for it's improved viewfinder display.

The fm3a also has an exposure lock beneath your right thumb. I don't think I've ever used this feature.

[Juraj Kovacik]

I think I can live without AP mode. But, before I ordered FM3 I had read some articles on the net about FM2 and FM3 and there was something what move me to the more expensive solution - if I good remember, FM2 has different, not needle, exposure meter and I found some complains about it... Meanwhile, I wanted a new camera - it would be for long time use, I hope next 40 years at least :-). They are selling new FM2 in Bratislava shops for something about 2/3 price of new FM3. I've decided and now I'm in waiting mode. I will be share my experience. And thanks for your opinion.

JK