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  1. #21

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    This is a belated post. I too have an old Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic (stamped ASAHI Opt Co. Japan) that originally had the mercury PX-400 battery. I bought what my batteriesplus rep said should be a compatible replacement (silver 394X with a white ring, not a blue one - supposedly 1.5v). Meter still doesn't work. Does this suggest a camera meter circuit problem or is there something else I can try? It has been several years since I used the camera and the last time I replaced the battery I used a European-made mercury type. Worked fine.

  2. #22

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    May 2008
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    Hello,
    i have a Spotmatic (ca. 1967) with the 394 battery and a self made plastic-ring which I have cut from an old ballpoint pen. It works and the calibration is o.k. I compared it with a Gossen Lunasix F. Did you insert the battery with the correct polarity? Maybe you should measure the electrical circuit with an Ohm-meter.

  3. #23

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    My Spotmatic is approximately the same age. I think that any 1.5V silver oxide battery of the correct size should work (I have several plastic rings) but neither of the V400PX silver oxide batteries made by Dantona work. I have an ohmmeter. Would I connect one lead to the contact in the camera and the other lead to the body?

  4. #24

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    Apr 2011
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    Jochen,
    I tested the battery receptacle with ohmmeter and there is no continuity - an open circuit. I tried two other 1.5v silver oxide batteries and the exposure meter still does not work.

    When you do this continuity test on your own Spotmatic, what kind of reading does your ohmmeter give?

    I'm puzzled that after sitting on the shelf for 10 years that the bridge circuit would, for no apparent reason, go bad. I will wait for your reply to my question (please let me know). If you can confirm that the ohmmeter test proves that the bridge circuit is bad, I will see if a camera shop can repair it for a reasonable price.
    Gary

  5. #25
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    A hint: the likely culprit is the contact on the meter switch (assuming the battery compartment contacts are clean).
    Try "excercising" it a bit.

    If you like the camera, then it's time for a CLA anyway...
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  6. #26

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    Apr 2011
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    Thanks for the tip! I'll try it. CLA? Clean? Lubricate? A?

  7. #27
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    => Adjust... :-)
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  8. #28
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    Or when the little parts get lost as you are servicing the camera, I think of it as Curse Lube and Assemble.
    my real name, imagine that.

  9. #29

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    Apr 2011
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    I used an ohmmeter in the battery receptacle and found continuity. I had the meter set to too low a range to get a reading, so I upped the range to R x 1K I got a reading of about 2,500K. I get that reading only with the meter switch in the On position so it appears that both the switch and internal circuitry are good. Don't know where to go from here except to hand it to a repair shop and see if I can afford getting it fixed. I'm completely puzzled.

  10. #30

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    May 2008
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    Hello Gary,
    I tested my 4 Spotmatics II's: Speed 100 Asa, lens cap on, ligthtmeter switch on, between the little steel spring in the battery compartment and the body = ground, measuring range 200 kilo-Ohm. At 1/60 sec. 3 cameras gave a resistance between26.5 and 27.7 kilo-Ohm. In position B they had 18.8 to 22 k-Ohm. One body had 41.4 at 1/60 sec. and 37.2 at B (this is the oldest from 1971). An older Spotmatic SP (from 1966) gave 35.6 at 1/60 and 18.5 at B. When you switch off the lightmeter there is no contact. The reason for the different readings could be that Pentax used CdS-cells of different sensitivities and different galvanometers and the SP II has an ASA range to 3200, the SP only to 1600. You could have a look under the base-plate. The battery compartment is part of the plate and is contacted by a little steel-spring on the inner side. Maybe a wire is off or there is a bad contact.

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