Olympus OM-1 or OM-1n?

[cmo]

As I own several Olympus lenses I am lusting for an OM camera body... using these lenses on an EOS with an adapter is an infamy.

The main purpose will be landscapes. For the landscapes I will use infrared film sometimes (now you know why I don't want to do that with an EOS, it fogs the IR film...).

So, no winder, no motor, no TTL-flash is needed, but I need a camera that does not kill the battery during long exposures, preferrably works without batteries, and is rock solid. An OM-1 and 1n are probably a good choice.

Is the OM-1n a better choice as it is younger?

[geauxpez]

I would say the OM1n because, as you say, it is "younger". According to mir.com it had "34 improvements" over the earlier model.

[oscroft]

Yep, I'd go for an OM1n - there are far more of them around, and they're newer so any "teething" imperfections in the OM1 were solved. You need to be careful getting a suitable battery for the meter though - I had mine converted to use silver cells.

[Robint]

I also agree on an OM 1n for the improvements. For the battery problem I used a zinc oxide battery and a 'O' ring. As the camera is all mechanical you could use a seperate meter. You only need a battery if you want the internal meter. Do stay away from the alkaline equivelents, they do not give constant voltage.

[Ulrich Drolshagen]

*All* OM1/n (and OM2/n) need a CLA anyway. Otherwise they get destroyed by the internal seal foam. It's the same stuff as the light seals. Test their state and you know what to expect internally. If they are not sticky ask the vendor whether the stuff inside got replaced too. The replacement of the light seals may have been a DIY-job. Changing the internal foam definitely is not. Still being adjusted to mercury cells is a hint that the replacement of the light seals has not been made by a qualified repairsman.
If it gets a CLA, it's not a big deal to adjust it to 1.5V and use silver oxide batteries.
Besides an OM2n I own a very early OM1 (I've been told that it must be one of the first hitting the marketplace in Germany). I've no problems so far but I don't use it often anymore.

Ulrich

[oscroft]

*All* OM1/n (and OM2/n) need a CLA anyway.

I think that's something of an exaggeration. I have an OM1n and three OM2ns (and other OMs), and only the OM1n has had a CLA. The OM2ns are working just fine (and should one of them fail, it won't be worth the cost of a CLA - I'll just throw it away and buy another, they're so cheap).

[John Hermanson]

yes, go with a 1N. Very reliable and has all the improvements that ever went into the plain OM-1. John

[Paul.]

Well I went the other way and traded an OM1n for a mint OM1 use it frequently never had a problem, same with my OM2n if/ when they break I will have them repaired and have the OM adapted to silver oxide batteries.

Whichever you choose I am sure it will please you.

regards Paul.

[nsurit]

Whichever you get, send it to John at zuiko.com for a CLA and conversion to modern batteries. Bill Barber

[One_DaveT]

While I wouldn't want to discourage you from picking up a nice mechanical OM body, regarding IR and EOS, I believe a EOS 1V does not use IR for sprocket detection, but something like an Elan 7E does.

And to throw some more controversy out there, since you're looking for a new body...
for IR, I think a range finder or any sort would be preferable over an SLR, just because the IR filters are almost opaque to the human eye. Also, I think the quality of your fine zuiko's might be lost in the IR rendering.

But there's more to taking the photos, than just technical nit picks that I've mentioned.

have fun,
Dave