I have five Canon FD SLRs and I'm happy with the screen they all came with.
My Nikon N80 has gridlines that can go in or out at the touch of a button (there is almost like an LCD in the viewfinder). I like to use those to line things up but otherwise my Nikkormats have the focusing aid and rangefinder cameras a rangefinder and that's it for me.
Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time
Last edited by Ira Rush; 08-31-2009 at 04:50 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I'm using a standard screen with grid lines for my F2. I'd really like to get a hold of an H1 (as mentioned earlier it has a microprisim across the entire screen) since I figure this will allow quicker focusing for my street photography. Sadly, they don't seem to be very common; I've only come across one in San Jose CA and it was in poor condition for the price.
I use the E screen (grid lines) in most of my Nikons. I use a P screen (focusing aids plus quadrant grid lines) in my F3HP. The lines really help me to avoid a problem I tend to have - crooked horizons.
Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.
Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?
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My OM focusing screen of choice for general shooting is one which as a center microprism with a coarse focusing ring surround.
Be sure you get the right "H"... Some wont focus (properly) with some lenses.
Originally Posted by marcmarc
I have the H2, which is the most compatible with the lenses I have (and maybe in general). Check before buying!
An annoying thing is that you usually have to change the exposure compensation for each lens.
M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa
I'm using the plain matte with grid lines on my EOS3, I don't want to be annoyed by focusing aids (OK, I agree the AF does it for me, but I also use manual focusing when using a tripod, about 50% of the time) and the grid help composing and keeping this $*%# horizon line straight
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For my EOS 1N and 1NRS, plain matte screen with gridlines (for horizontal, vertical alignment) and 3.5% centre-spot, 2.3% fine spot rings; similar screen for my ancient EOS 5. All cameras are used with a right angle magnifier for critical focusing with manual focus TS-E lenses (where introducing tilt, shift or both causes gross derangement of any central microprism spot); I've found the split image microprism type screens very imprecise and distracting for critical work, and routinely disable the red superimposed AF points, mostly for their irritation. What you actually fancy in your camera will to a large degree depend on what type of work you do.
The Beattie Intensecreens were interesting for their extra stop or so of brightness, though prone to introducing exposure errors. They seem not to be available now.
.::Gary Rowan Higgins
One beautiful image is worth
a thousand hours of therapy.
"It is horrifying that we have to fight our own government
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For manual focus (especially with old eyes like mine), a split prism rocks. I can focus on the subject directly and shoot or I can find both ends of the DOF I want in the scene and then set aperture and focus using the lens's DOF scale.
Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO
"We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin