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  1. #11
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    Actually I have a few ar-1's from Nikon and 2 of the aftermarket ones.
    I noticed the action on the Nikon ones is better.
    Is that because it's engraved Nikon?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    Is that because it's engraved Nikon?
    The plunging action is smoooother.
    You can get the Nikon one for 15 if you watch carefully.
    I wouldn't pay more as quite a few offer them at exorbitant prices.

    btw CGW: I bet you're always first on the list when people are making their party invites.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    The plunging action is smoooother.
    You can get the Nikon one for 15 if you watch carefully.
    I wouldn't pay more as quite a few offer them at exorbitant prices.

    btw CGW: I bet you're always first on the list when people are making their party invites.
    That was certainly true with the old copies (which weren't even really copies) back from when the F was current and into the FE/FM era. I thought maybe they did a better job today, and I suppose maybe they aren't all the same and CGW's could be good as the Nikon original. The difference was quite noticeable in the old days; sure the cheapies worked, but not well enough that I preferred them over the bare release.

    When I got back into F's a number of years ago I was lucky enough to have a friend give/loan me 3 Nikon made soft releases.

  4. #14
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    Yea absolutely Mark, the whole purpose of these things is to allow maybe not less pressure to trip but a smother operation when releasing the shutter.

    My guess is the inside where the two cylinders mate/slide isn't machined or finished as well on the aftermarket versions.

    I wasn't aware they even would fit an FM/FE. They dont on my FM2. You need the later style that screws into the actual shutter cable release socket in the center of the shutter button.
    Now those later types have no moving parts so there is probably no difference at all if Nikon even made any for the FM2.
    Last edited by brucemuir; 11-01-2011 at 09:34 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling

  5. #15
    UK Roger's Avatar
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    Stock of AR-1`s

    Quote Originally Posted by cmo View Post
    After a looooong time since the last post I have a question.

    AR-1s are not produced any more and I need three of them

    Did anyone ever try the cheap AR-1 clones that are available on big auction sites?

    Grays of Westminster had a stock last time I was there, they`ve got a mint one advertised for £15 today. I`ve got one on my S3 and it does make shooting easier and smoother.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by UK Roger View Post
    Grays of Westminster had a stock last time I was there, they`ve got a mint one advertised for £15 today. I`ve got one on my S3 and it does make shooting easier and smoother.
    Could you get me 3 or 4?
    Thy heart -- thy heart! -- I wake and sigh,
    And sleep to dream till day
    Of the truth that gold can never buy
    Of the bawbles that it may.

    www.silverhalidephotography.com

  7. #17
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    Yea absolutely Mark, the whole purpose of these things is to allow maybe not less pressure to trip but a smother operation when releasing the shutter.

    My guess is the inside where the two cylinders mate/slide isn't machined or finished as well on the aftermarket versions.

    I wasn't aware they even would fit an FM/FE. They dont on my FM2. You need the later style that screws into the actual shutter cable release socket in the center of the shutter button.
    Now those later types have no moving parts so there is probably no difference at all if Nikon even made any for the FM2.
    Guess again.The cheapies I use on FE bodies look/work the same as an AR-1. Hard plastic inside a metal collar that screws into the outer threaded circumference of the shutter button. The AR-1 is just overkill/sucker bait for this application. Those large, threaded, thumb tack-like buttons work on the F3--use an MD-4 and you needn't bother.

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