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  1. #11
    bobwysiwyg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FilmOnly View Post
    As far as the FE's top plate or top deck is concerned, I had (according to what I have read) thought that both the top and bottom plates of the FE are metal. Can anyone verify this?
    Unless some change was made along the production life of the FE, they are metal, at least on mine.
    WYSIWYG - At least that's my goal.

    Portfolio-http://apug.org/forums/portfolios.php?u=25518

  2. #12

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    Thanks, folks...I appreciate the verifications. I have never heard of any production variances with regard to the FE. I await its arrival--which is scheduled for Friday. Now the only question that remains is: what film to load? Considering the time of year, I will use 400 speed. Hmm...400 Delta or 400 Portra NC?...

  3. #13
    glockman99's Avatar
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    The MB-21 for the F4s is not a motordrive...It's a battery holder/verticle grip that holds 6 AA batteries, rather than the 4 AA's of the F4. This "extra power" makes the motordrive, (which is built-in to the F4 body), run faster. Also, I feel that MY F4s is a VERY sturdy (professional-grade) camera.

    However, your choice of the FE & MD-12 is a VERY good combo.
    Dann Fassnacht
    Aberdeen, WA USA

    glockman99@hotmail.com
    -------------------------------------
    My film cameras are all Nikons: F3HP, F4s, N90s, N8008, N8008s.

  4. #14

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    Nikon FE/MD-12

    I have two FEs, an MD-11 and an MD-12. For slower shooting I prefer a Nikkormat. The FE I use more often has an E screen so it's nice for macro work. The way film prices are going I think I'll use the FE more without the MD-12 or MD-11. For low light situations the FE's meter is sensitive so that's an advantage over the Nikkormat. I decided on the FEs because I do not trust the electronics in the earlier Nikkormat EL or ELW models as much.

  5. #15

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    OK, I have my FE in my hands. You need to have a battery in the camera. The MD-12 doesn't provide power to the meter or shutter. If you try to shoot it without batteries in the camera, the mirror will lock up.

    You can operate the camera on B or M90 without a battery and with the drive, just as you can without the motor drive attached. The motor drive uses eight AA batteries, which adds considerably to its weight.

    I had wanted the MD-12 for years, and now that I have it, I think it's a bit too bulky. Well, that's how it sometimes goes.

    When I was shooting college sports years ago, I would have gladly used it. As it was, I used two bodies and changed film when there was a break in the action.

  6. #16

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    Well, that last sentence didn't make any sense. I still would have used two bodies. I just would have been able to shoot the action a bit quicker. And of course I probably would have had to change film more often.

  7. #17

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    I appreciate all of the input--thanks.

    I agree that it looks like I have made a good choice with the FE/MD-12 combo. I prefer the added bulk of the drive, and so I should find the drive to be an improvement in more than one way. I find that I am steadier with hand-held shots with a little more weight. The camera seems to balance better, too.

    I wonder if I will need to place the advance lever at the 30-degree angle when I have the MD-12 attached? The way I see it, the on/off switch on the MD-12 should be sufficent. I know that the switch turns on the meter, but am unsure if I will have to flip the advance lever to turn on the camera.

  8. #18
    BradS's Avatar
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    I love the Nikon FE. I have had four of them. Two died (caution: the MD-12 can be hard on these bodies!) and two survive. The body is all metal and the only 35mm SLR that I have ever found to do a better job of metering is the Nikon FA. I have the SB-10 too. It is a nice little flash and if carefully used, gives decent results. It gets the job done but it is nothing to write home about. The more modern offerings are better. Mine has lately developed some problems with the battery holder...not really problems...more like it is is getting finicky in its old age.

  9. #19

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    With the MD-12 attached, you don't have to touch the film advance lever at all. It can remain in its stowed position.

  10. #20

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    Thanks for the information...I am concerned about what you indicate in regard to the MD-12 being hard on the FE body. I plan on using the MD-12 all the time. I hope this does not bring about problems.

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