I have a 12mm circle center weighted meter that I use on my Nikon 35mm. I pretty much like to use that most of the time. I think any type of meter is fine to use as long as you pay attention to it and become familiar with what is going to happen. If you want to just point and shoot type photography then the matrix probably will be the kindest type of meter to use.
I found that the 80/20 of the F3, if used correctly, yields about as good results as spot or matrix on the F5, only that the latter is more foolproof. Even for slide film (shot the original Velvia for years in the F3).
I.e., with the F3 you have to use manual exposure, and think about what you meter at. The F5 w/matrix I most of the time get away with putting on "A".
Now, for b&w negativess I actually prefer spot metering, if available, but 80/20 is good enough here, too.
There is only one kind of in-camera meter that I really do not mind: Canon FDs with the center rectangle that does all the metering. Best in-camera metering setup ever, IMHO (except for the in-camera incident meter on early Nikon F Photomics). Not too big. Not too small. Usually gets a printable neg in a quick pinch...when there is not time and you just need to point, set the aperture, and shoot.
"Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."
What ever system is on the camera I am using:
I have two Nikon SLRs with slightly different matrix patterns and different number on matrix points. The F-100 has a spot meter that I will use for 35mm and for some 120 photographs.
The Hasselblad has a region that the metering is done in and I am happy with the results from the PME.
With any system, I meter with little or no sky in the photograph.
Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.