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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by wiltw View Post
    Spotmatics (original, II, F) all used mercury oxide batteries, and given the stable voltage from those batteries it would be surprising that a bridge circuit would have been used. Nevertheless, the Olympus OM-1 is absolutely dependent upon constant 1.3v, its meter does not align two needle but is similar in appearance to the Spotmatic (align needle to center of indicator area), its needle swings out when power is off.
    Surprising or not, it's a fact. I have six of them, all rehabbed by myself. I'm quite sure of it.

    As someone else said... trying to force the battery cover off is a good way to screw it up. Take off the bottom plate and soak the whole shebang... try a light vinegar solution first, that will usually do the trick without anything toxic. If the simple soak doesn't do it, use a sharp blade to pop off the hump that covers the battery on the inside of the cover, and try the soak again. The hump is easy to re-affix. From there, if still no luck, move on to stronger solvents. But I've never needed it, and I've worked on some that were really burned and frozen.
    -brian hayden
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by zumbido View Post
    Surprising or not, it's a fact. I have six of them, all rehabbed by myself. I'm quite sure of it.

    As someone else said... trying to force the battery cover off is a good way to screw it up. Take off the bottom plate and soak the whole shebang... try a light vinegar solution first, that will usually do the trick without anything toxic. If the simple soak doesn't do it, use a sharp blade to pop off the hump that covers the battery on the inside of the cover, and try the soak again. The hump is easy to re-affix. From there, if still no luck, move on to stronger solvents. But I've never needed it, and I've worked on some that were really burned and frozen.
    Ah, good, the voice of real experience and expertise, not one of mere speculation!!!

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by wiltw View Post
    Ah, good, the voice of real experience and expertise, not one of mere speculation!!!
    That said, I only use silver batteries. I avoid alkaline in cameras on general principle unless they were built specifically for it.
    -brian hayden
    http://fed-2.org

  4. #24

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    The Spotmatic continued life as the K1000. They're nearly identical mechanically, although the K1000 is lighter in weight.

    I just sold both of my Spotmatics. Lovely cameras, but I had plenty of lovely cameras that weren't being used. Both had f/1.4 Takumars -- an early version and a late version.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by elekm View Post
    The Spotmatic continued life as the K1000. They're nearly identical mechanically, although the K1000 is lighter in weight.

    I just sold both of my Spotmatics. Lovely cameras, but I had plenty of lovely cameras that weren't being used. Both had f/1.4 Takumars -- an early version and a late version.
    Similar, though I wouldn't go so far as to say "nearly identical". Sort of true but with a few important differences. Biggest--the gearing and interlocks under the baseplate that co-ordinate film advance and shutter cocking was improved in the K1000, such that they have a *far* lower instance of the classic "film advance jam" issue. (One wheel had its shape changed to be more oblong in later Spotmatics, which improved matters but the K1000 went further.)

    The K1000 also discarded stop-down metering, with the trade-off of losing DOF preview, which contributed to some re-arranging of the assembly on the face under the lensmount plate.

    In the end, I prefer Spotmatics these days. Somehow I've always found them easier to correct, and the screwmount is a lot less cumbersome for me than the bayonet. I used K mount for nearly a decade before I got into M42 and "Leica" screwmount, but the screw quickly became my favorite. Touch it to the body at any position, spin it backwards til there's a click, then forwards. With the bayonet I'm always looking for the orange dots and fumbling around, lest I cause metal to grind on metal and put my teeth on edge.
    Last edited by zumbido; 02-25-2010 at 09:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    -brian hayden
    http://fed-2.org

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by zumbido View Post
    With the bayonet I'm always looking for the orange dots and fumbling around, lest I cause metal to grind on metal and put my teeth on edge.
    I totally agree with most bayonets being a pita to align right. Especially nikon in that regard. I always liked Canon FD because there are very clear red dots on the TOP. The M42 easy as pie to change lenses. But I can see how this would cause problems when trying to communicate lens info to the body.
    Go not to the elves for counsel, for they will say both yes and no.

  7. #27
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Never had a problem with any TM lens system. I find it very straightforward and quick...more so than any other system. Nikon can be a bit of a PITA for me if moving very quickly. I love Canon old FD mounting. I can't stand Canon New FD mounting. The coolest thing about the BL system is how the lenses tighten themselves, and how they don't have any sort of interlock for removal! New FD does neither of those things.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgb74 View Post
    The Takumar lenses were/are very good. A 50mm 1.4 lens will be more desirable than the 1.8 or 2.0. Series (over time) went from Takumar to Super-Takumar to Super Multi Coated (SMC) Takumar.
    The 50mm f/1.4 is a great standard lens, but its arguable that the 55mm f/1.8 is a bit sharper.
    Mamiya 645 Super | Nikon F4/F100/FM2n | Minolta Maxxum 9/Dynax 7/X-700/X-500/XD7/SRT-101 | Pentax Spotmatic | Canonet QL 19 (GII) | and a whole bunch of glass

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiltw View Post
    Nevertheless, the Olympus OM-1 is absolutely dependent upon constant 1.3v, its meter does not align two needle but is similar in appearance to the Spotmatic (align needle to center of indicator area), its needle swings out when power is off.
    The fact that the needle is not centred when it's off is a sign that it is not a bridge circuit so you are correct that it needs a stable 1.3v to work accurately.

    The only minor problem which can occur if using 1.5v cells in a 1.3v camera with a bridge circuit is that if you have positions marked as +/- one or two stops for exposure compensation, they will be a bit further out on the meter's swing than they were with a 1.3v cell. Not by much though.



    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  10. #30
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    Good news - the battery cover came off with a bit of WD40. There were no batteries inside, so no corrosion.

    I have more cameras than is healthy at the moment, but I may look at buying the lens. Is there such a thing as a M42 to OM-mount adapter?

    There is also a 28mm Super-Lentar and a 135mm Super-Lentar with the camera. I'm thinking these are not as great as the Takumar.

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