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  1. #41

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    I'm more than happy with my Spoties and Super Takumars. The image branded by a SMC Takumar is unparaleled.

  2. #42
    Trond's Avatar
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    I'm very pleased with both my Spotmatics and SVs. The lenses are generally very good.

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post
    I thought all Spotmatics used a bridge circuit and were not sensitive to voltage variations. My non F model is fine with alkalines as is my SP500.

    It's easy to tell. If the meter position for proper exposure is in the centre and the meter needle goes to that position when the meter is switched off, then it's a bridge circuit and an alkaline or silver 1.5 volt cell will do.

    The meter in a bridge circuit displays the difference in voltage between two potential dividers. At correct exposure, this difference is zero so it cannot vary with cell voltage.

    If the exposure is set by lining up one needle with another then it is not a bridge circuit and will be sensitive to voltage change


    Steve.
    I suspect most alkalines have declining voltage on the drive home between the store and the camera anyway. With silver oxides being sold around here for $2.50/5 pack I go that route
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Goutiere View Post
    In 1966, the year I bought the camera, it was as good a camera as I could have possibly afforded at the time. If I had waited for a better camera I might never have bought one.

    The camera bodies of the Spotmatics are excellent. The lenses were definitely good enough. The miniscule difference between lenses is not enough to spend a lot effort cranking out meaningless rhetoric when one time could be taking pictures. Been there, done that, and none of my work is any better for it.
    The rhetoric is not meaningless. I have a radioactive 35 f2 Takumar which can resolve a sailboat in a sunset, but it can't produce the beauty of a 35 f2 Summicron in many landscape situations.
    Mark
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  5. #45

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    Sure a summicron is a good lens. It should be for the money you pay for it. I just don't think the majority of photographers out there would be able to tell the difference between a print from a summicron and a smc tak. There are probably more photogs here who could tell the difference, but I doubt many could tell which one is which. I read an interesting test where the same shot was taken with four different lenses (Med format)on the same film, same soup, same subject. Guess which one John Q Public chose as the best lens? The Mamiya! I believe they compared Zeiss Planar, Mamiya Sekor, Bronica Zenzanon, Schneider Kreuznach Xenotar. With another subject and lighting, one of the other lenses would probably get the nod.


    I have a Color-Heliar 105/3.5 that has "cult" status because of its "glow" at wide aperatures. That glow (ever hear of the leica glow?) is lens aberrations. They go away when you stop the lens down. At f11, you or I will not be able to tell the difference between the Heliar, Planar, Xenotar. (I have all three). I'm talking about picking out an 8X10 print.

    My point is not to denigrate any top quality lenses at all. Are there differences in micro-contrast? Sure. Resolution? sure. tonality? yup. You will probably find differences in each of these areas between identical lenses made in different years too. I have a 50/4 Zeiss Flektogon, arguably one of the finest wide angle medium format lenses anywhere, and it's a piece of crap. If doesn't get sharp in the corners until f11. I just got a dud.

    Get out there and shoot what ya got.
    Rick Jason.
    "I'm still developing"

  6. #46
    Paul Goutiere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricksplace View Post
    Sure a summicron is a good lens. It should be for the money you pay for it.
    You are right, and money can't buy imagination, unless you are buying someone else's.

    I like good stuff but I really wonder how much my work has improved by more expensive equipment. My Leica M4-P isn't enough of an improvement over my Spotmatic to have anyone notice. My Hasselblad's 6x6 negative is, however, and I suspect a 4x5 neg would be.

    For me the big thing is to have the time to get the pictures I want, process them and present them. Looking for the perfect lens/camera/system combination is over.

  7. #47

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    I'd say that personal preference is more important than rhetoric.

  8. #48

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    387S watch battery, fits Spottie and is fairly low drain.

    I'm a huge Spottie fan. Love my SP1, really covet an SP2, and some more Takumars, but that's a far as I think I'd go towards the later models with the exception maybe of the Spotmatic F. I actually like the M42 mount better than the bayonet.

  9. #49
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Something I want mention about removing battery covers. If a coin won't remove it after applying something to dissolve the corrosion and a drop or two of penetrating oil, take the plate off the camera. Often the cover will have two spot-faced places on the other side, which provide a place to put a home made tool. Just remember that from that side you turn it clockwise to remove it.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  10. #50
    resummerfield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lxdude View Post
    .....Just remember that from that side you turn it clockwise to remove it.
    I'm probably confused, but I think "lefty-loosey", or counter-clockwise, will loosen the cover regardless of which side the torque is applied.

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