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Olympus OM2: problems.
About a year ago, I got an OM2 (and early-ish model with the serial number in the 2----- somethings, and the metering pattern on the shutter blind going across in a uniform stripe edge-to-edge) quite cheaply (Buy cheap: pay dear!  ).
It was in excellent cosmetic condition, but the seller said the battery wasn't working (I should have walked away right there  ) and the mirror was in lock-up.
Anyway, I took a punt, bought it, eventually found batteries for it and...it wouldn't function:rolleyes:. (In future, I will always carry a set of Silver Oxide batteries so I can check before committing myself )
Well, with some help, I got it going, but -since then- it has had new seals, including around the prism and a a new prism, the meter calibrated and the advance mechanism re-lubed.
Now I notice, while the shutter appears to be working at most speeds, when set to 1/1,oooth, what happens is the mirror flips up and stays up while the shutter opens fully and stays fully open...until one moves the shutter speed dial back to 1/5ooth, then everything clicks back into place. Of course, the frame (if there is film in the camera) would be lost.
Has anyone heard of/experienced this situation, and can it be fixed, do you think?
Last edited by Galah; 03-08-2010 at 08:11 PM.
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The 1/1ooo position on the shutter speed ring is defective (not making good contact) or the manual shutter speed resistor is defective.
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 Originally Posted by Chan Tran  The 1/1ooo position on the shutter speed ring is defective (not making good contact) or the manual shutter speed resistor is defective.
OK, thanks for responding: it sounds fixable?
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or the manual shutter speed resistor is defective
just had a look at the circuit diagram and the various resistors are connected in series with the various speed contacts between resistors so that the overall resistance can be varied by selecting different contacts. This means that if one resistor failed you would lose all manual speeds, not just 1000. My guess is that it is the contact.
Do you really need 1000 on manual? I presume it works at 1000 on auto. If everything else is working as it should I would just enjoy it and use it. I know its nice to have everything perfect, but sometimes it just isn't worth the hassle.
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Try John Hermanson. He contributes to the site and is an Olympus specialist http://www.zuiko.com/
He may pick up on this thread, or you could send him a note and ask - couldn't hurt.
I was given an OM2 and really like it.
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Oldest OM-2 (100,000 to 300,000) tend to need lots of work. Hard to tell what's really wrong with it. John
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I had an OM-2n that had exactly that problem. It usually happened on the first frame, the second frame was ok though. In the end it had two new circuit boards but that never really solved it, the problem would come back every now and again. In the end I got rid of it and got an OM-1 instead. Sorry to sound so glum...
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Not wishing to hi-jack the thread, but is the 300,000 serial number an exact cutoff? Mine starts 306,000 - what changed? is mine "early" or "later" spec?
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Originally Posted by mr rusty just had a look at the circuit diagram and the various resistors are connected in series with the various speed contacts between resistors so that the overall resistance can be varied by selecting different contacts. This means that if one resistor failed you would lose all manual speeds, not just 1000. My guess is that it is the contact.
Do you really need 1000 on manual? I presume it works at 1000 on auto. If everything else is working as it should I would just enjoy it and use it. I know its nice to have everything perfect, but sometimes it just isn't worth the hassle.
Thanks for responding .
Actually, the problem is more serious than I initially imagined; it happens on auto as well as manual, and appears to affect more than the 1/1000 eg, the mirror lockup/slowdown/"sticking" now occurs at 1/500, 1/250 and 1/125th as well. I can't gauge whether the other speeds are accurate or not: they may all be about 1/60th no matter what the setting on the shutter ring.
Well, at least it explains why -for some time- I felt there may have been a metering problem .
Can you give me a link to the circuit diagram, please? (For my repair man, if I decide to go that way)
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Originally Posted by John Hermanson Oldest OM-2 (100,000 to 300,000) tend to need lots of work. Hard to tell what's really wrong with it. John Thanks, John.
Seriously, if I were in the USA, I would send it to to you, but from OZ, just too many hassles, I think.
I'm feeling I may just donate it to my repair guy for spares: we'll see.
Last edited by Galah; 03-09-2010 at 05:41 PM.
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