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  1. #11
    Poisson Du Jour's Avatar
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    That's very true.
    Professional experience will sort out what you definitely need and make most use of as opposed to what camera manufacturers think you will find useful. There are some beautiful cameras out there and I believe individuals should come to grips with them and honestly appraise themselves and the camera.

    Karen Nakamura is an excellent, impartial reviewer with and interest in deafness and disability in society — something I share in common. Her photoethnographic writing is an interesting, factual and at times amusing aside from her extremely well-researched professorial engagements and I follow both her fields of endeavour keenly.
    .::Gary Rowan Higgins

    A comfort zone is a wonderful place. But nothing ever grows there.
    —Anon.






  2. #12
    ath
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    Regarding the IR film issue afaik the only film affected by the IR film transport control was the Kodak HIR and maybe the Konica.
    Efke IR and the "near" infrared films are OK with the EOS3.
    Regards,
    Andreas

  3. #13

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    If you need the speed of the 1V, then buy the 1V. Personally, I didn't, so I used the EOS 3 for years. Oddly, I paired it with an Elan 7E, for quiet situations (its shutter and mirror slap are VERY quiet).

    I will add though, that the Eye Control (ECF) was used at least 85% of the time on both cameras. I found it reliable, and quick, and I wear glasses... which is normally something say does not work with ECF. It did work fine.

    Actually, the drop of ECF was why I left canon when I went digital. It was the make or break feature for canon as far as I was concerned. Once it was out... I decided I wanted a nice weathersealed camera the size (or smaller) than the EOS 3.

    If I went back to Canon film bodies today, I would rebuy the same pair of models.

  4. #14

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    A lot of good points above. 3 is the best buy, 1V is the 'best' camera. I bought a 1V a couple years ago. Honestly, at the price these things are going for, why not buy the best? On ebay, it looks like 1Vs are going for $400-600. I think the 3 is going for around $200-300. Be aware that the NiCad batteries and charger for the power drive are expensive. About $75-100 for a battery and anywhere from $100-300 for a charger. So if you need to hit 10 fps for some reason, budget in some extra money.

    The 1V certainly is heavier, but I have lighter cameras. I use it for shooting concerts (including rough and tumble ones where I'm in the crowd), shooting in poor weather, etc. I was out in one of the blizzards that hit the East Coast this year for a couple hours. I'm sure many cameras would have been fine in the weather, but with the 1V, I just didn't worry about the camera at all.

    My thinking as of a couple years ago: I'm young(ish). I wanted to start shooting film. Who knew how long some of these emulsions will be around. I managed to get in on the tail end of HIE and Kodachrome. I wanted to shoot film while it was still around with the best I could afford. The extra $300 at the time for the 1V was well spent. Hopefully film (and batteries and paper and enlarger bulbs) will be around for a long, long time so I never have to go back to digital

  5. #15
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    I am amused at this talk of the 1V being "heavy". Sure it is heavier then the 3 but not so much as to make an issue of it. Weight should not even be in the equation, frankly. I have all the L zooms, and all the L primes up to 200mm and with any of them attached, weight is not a problem, not even on a 12 mile hike in the woods. In addition, a heavier camera makes for a a more stable hand held camera...weight actually works in your favor.

    As to the flash sync differences, 1/250s vs 1/200 may not seem like a big difference but it all helps. To suggest that a "real pro" would not consider such things is just arrogance. I would go with the faster flash sync.

    Lastly, I would stay clear of any and all EOS film bodies that don't use the E-TTL logic...this is a BIG deal....E-TTL is fantastic and it assists the photographer in fantastic ways.

    Since used 1v cameras are a steal on ebay, Craigslist, why not get the best? It will last a lifetime and with the grip you'll always have available AA batteries.

    The Eye-Control focus is not a gimmick, nor is it a feature shyied away from by pros, as has been suggested. The truth is it works for many, not for all because of the geometry of our eyes....I have friends that can never get it to work, and I know people like me that get it to work 100% of the time....what helps a professional better then the ability to use eye control to manually pick and choose the appropriate focus point? If it doesn't work for you, don't assume it does not work for others. This feature is great because it encourages the shooter to NOT Lock-Focus-Recompose, which when shooting fast and close can effect critical focus and metering too. With this feature I never recompose after locking focus....of course you don't need this feature to prevent the recompose, but this feature really helps and it allows you to focus on composing more and less about focus points....you just look at the part of the frame yout want to focus on and bang it locks there...fantastic.
    Coming back home to my film roots. Canon EOS-3 SLR, Canon EOS 1V SLR, 580ex flash, and 5D DSLR shooter. Prime lens only shooter.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverGlow View Post
    I am amused at this talk of the 1V being "heavy". Sure it is heavier then the 3 but not so much as to make an issue of it. Weight should not even be in the equation, frankly. I have all the L zooms, and all the L primes up to 200mm and with any of them attached, weight is not a problem, not even on a 12 mile hike in the woods. In addition, a heavier camera makes for a a more stable hand held camera...weight actually works in your favor.
    I *have* the body and I can tell you straight up that the 1V is noticeably heavier than either my F3 or Leica M4 due to containing electronics and machinery the others don't have to include. The camera *is* heavy.

    The Eye-Control focus is not a gimmick, nor is it a feature shyied away from by pros, as has been suggested. The truth is it works for many, not for all because of the geometry of our eyes....
    I'll say that for automated systems, it's definitely heading down the right road, but the issue is that automated systems don't typically agree with compositional choices - and for the life of me I can't see why neither Canon nor Nikon have made it easy to just disable AF zones (i.e. center). Perhaps they've integrated this feature by now, but it seems like low hanging fruit.

    However, since I do *not* shoot sports, manual focus ends up being *just as fast* once one accounts for screwing around with AF points to get AF to do what you want it to do.

    The fact is, for 95% of non-fast-moving objects one doesn't really need auto-focus nor the weight of the lenses and bodies that come with it. If you choose to argue that, then back it up with photographic output.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  7. #17
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    There has never been a 35mm SLR ever made that is so heavy that it is worth bringing up as a drawback, IMHO.

    Now, if you are talking about an old Nikon or Canon with the big motor drives, then yes. Not something you want to carry around every day for no good reason...but no 35mm SLR is what I would call "heavy." Especially not any modern camera.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  8. #18
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    The fact is, for 95% of non-fast-moving objects one doesn't really need auto-focus nor the weight of the lenses and bodies that come with it. If you choose to argue that, then back it up with photographic output.
    The problem with an AF camera is that, even if you turn off the auto-focus, your'e left with a viewfinder and screen which aren't optimised for manual focus.

    My favorite cameras are those which make manual focusing a joy, even in bad light or with slow lenses...
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  9. #19
    SilverGlow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    I *have* the body and I can tell you straight up that the 1V is noticeably heavier than either my F3 or Leica M4 due to containing electronics and machinery the others don't have to include. The camera *is* heavy.



    I'll say that for automated systems, it's definitely heading down the right road, but the issue is that automated systems don't typically agree with compositional choices - and for the life of me I can't see why neither Canon nor Nikon have made it easy to just disable AF zones (i.e. center). Perhaps they've integrated this feature by now, but it seems like low hanging fruit.

    However, since I do *not* shoot sports, manual focus ends up being *just as fast* once one accounts for screwing around with AF points to get AF to do what you want it to do.

    The fact is, for 95% of non-fast-moving objects one doesn't really need auto-focus nor the weight of the lenses and bodies that come with it. If you choose to argue that, then back it up with photographic output.
    Clayne, I never wrote that the 1V wasn't heavier then the 3...we agree that it is, but a lot heavier? No. Will the difference in weight ever be an issue? No.

    What do you mean that automatic choices don't typically agree with compositional choices? All compositional choices for all cameras are in fact manual...it's up to the photographer. Since when does one leave compositional choices to the camera? If you're referring to focus points, one can manually pick and choose the appropriate FP manually, fast, easily. And with the 3's and 1v's 45 focus points, the photographer has several choices that will support his vision of what he wants in the composition.

    How is photographic output going to prove anything?

    AF is a fanstastic tool that can benefit a pro, and anyone that is a seasoned shooter. AF means the camera is there to assist the photographer and support his vision, not the other way around. And for example, when shooting a fast paced wedding, shooting AF means a lot faster and more accurate focusing then if done manually.
    Coming back home to my film roots. Canon EOS-3 SLR, Canon EOS 1V SLR, 580ex flash, and 5D DSLR shooter. Prime lens only shooter.

  10. #20

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    I miss ECF on my nikons. I loved the feature and quite frankly it did work 100% of the time for me.

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