Storing cameras indefinitely

[smile4me]

Having a number of 35mm cameras that I don't use anymore, I would like to store them. Aside from removing the batteries, can someone recommend the best way to prepare a camera and lens for long storage (1 year or longer). The camera bag is not an option as I have too many body and lenses

[sun of sand]

I'd think as long as your air isn't too humid and temperatures not too extreme the cameras should be fine for decades

I've read to and do keep all shutters on B or T

[2F/2F]

My old camera repair guy specifically suggested to let cameras sit on B with the shutter fired and not cocked. (This means that the advance lever should not be moved after firing the shot, of course.) I picked up the same habit from him. If T is an option, he said to use it instead of B.

[Colin Corneau]

silica gel bags stored with it, too, I presume, wouldn't be a bad idea.

[Paul Goutiere]

Having a number of 35mm cameras that I don't use anymore, I would like to store them. Aside from removing the batteries, can someone recommend the best way to prepare a camera and lens for long storage (1 year or longer). The camera bag is not an option as I have too many body and lenses

Edmonton is generally a drier area, like Canmore, particularly in the winter. I like to store equipment wrapped in a cotton cloth. Never in the basement or garage but in a nice dry clean area like a upstairs closet.
In a more humid climate, like Vancouver, I'd use a plastic bag with a few bags of good silica gel.

Never store the camera or lenses in it's eveready case. Never!

[John Koehrer]

Individual baggies with a pack of silica gel in each. Shutters/cameras released.

[Ralph Javins]

Good morning;

The subject of storing camera bodies is well known. Anyone else have any suggestions for the lenses that go onto those cameras?

For mine, I do put the caps on them, and they are inside plastic bags with a small packet of silica gel also. The only thing a little different that I do with my lenses is to set the aperture ring to the smallest f stop (f:16, f:22, et cetera) to allow the springs inside the lens to fully relax and avoid having them "take a set" and perhaps function only sluggisly later. Most of my lenses are Minolta ROKKOR and the lens aperture or diaphragm is held open at the maximum aperture for focusing by the camera body linkage system. When the shutter is released, the pin on the back of the lens mount is allowed to move and the aperture leaves close down by the springs inside the lens.

Anyone have any other thoughts on storing lenses also? (Aside from not in the garage, basement, or trunk or boot of the car.)

[Super Six One]

I was wondering whether storing cameras and or lenses in a vacuum bag(s) would be a good idea or not? As once all the air is sucked out, this might prevent an attack of the dreaded fungus, as there would not be any oxygen for the fungus to live on. Plus this would keep the equipment in a very steady environment!

Any thoughts on this anybody, any fungus experts out there?

[la.triglia]

My old camera repair guy specifically suggested to let cameras sit on B with the shutter fired and not cocked. (This means that the advance lever should not be moved after firing the shot, of course.) I picked up the same habit from him. If T is an option, he said to use it instead of B.

Dear friends,
I have a couple of 503cx with different lens, what I have to do during long stop periods to preserve their efficiency?
Ciao

[Allan Swindles]

If you use silica gel, remember it needs to be dried out regularly otherwise it will just hold the any moisture it has absorbed next to the equipment.