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  1. #1

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    Just Bought a Nikkor 105/2.5 P Non-AI...

    I have owned the AI version of this lens, but this time out I did not want to spend the extra money for the AI version. Thus, I saved a few dollars and bought the non-AI P version. How does this lens compare? I welcome any comments on its performance or build.

  2. #2
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    It's single-coated (the -PS is multicoated) and, of course, it won't work as conveniently (or at all) on newer bodies, but it's just fine optically. If you have AI bodies, though, you might want to get it AI-converted so that you can meter at full aperture. (Some AI-type bodies cannot take non-AI lenses at all.)
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  3. #3

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    I have the best body of all: the non-AI/AI FE. I recently gave up this body, but have missed it so much that I bought another. Actually, I bought two. I have owned several Nikon bodies, but the FE is surely my favorite.

  4. #4
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    You'll have to use stop-down metering (and remember to flip the AI tab out of the way) to use this lens on your FE, but it will work.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  5. #5

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    In the close range, the original Sonar formula is less sharp. By 5.6 they ae equal.

    The colors are different on all the original Nikkors single coated. If you put them on a digital camera, and make an image with the Sonar and Gauss same time , same place, you can see the difference, The later multi coated being more accurate. I am working on presets in photoshop so I can get color matches.

    The original Sonnar has a very small rear element, the later Gauss a large that nearly fills the lens mount area.

    I have one original and two Gauss copies and assure you will be pleased with either.
    I prefer the image of the Sonar, but the color of the Gauss, so I fix it in photoshop. My copy is unused mint for all practical purposes and is one of my treasured possessions.

  6. #6
    CGW
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    Using a more-or-less correct lens hood helps even the score between the single/multi-coated versions.

  7. #7

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    Thanks, CGW...I have also purchased the HS-4.

  8. #8
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    IMHO, A lot of the Nikkor-x.C lenses sold for the F mount bodies tend to provide less than optimum contrast. So, I tend to go with the single coated versions instead, since they tend to provide about the same contrast as the factory AI lenses do. Case in point, the Nikkor-S.C 50/1.4. Colors always looked washed out on the examples I owned. The Nikkor-S lenses, not so much. Those were much closer to the AI/AIS lenses.

    AI conversion is a good idea. Might be able to get an AI ring from one of the various suppliers listed here: http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/aimod.html

    I usually do reuse the non-AI prong, since the AI prong just looks odd on a chrome barrel (or in the case of the early 28/2, 35/1.4 and the black barrel -P/PC 105/2.5, metal focus ring) Nikkor.

    -J
    APUG: F4, F2AS, F, Nikomat FTn
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    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D200), 24/2.8 AI, 50/1.4 AI, 85/1.8 K, 180/2.8 ED AIS, 300/4.5 ED AI

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  9. #9

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    Thank you so much, J. I look forward to using this lens.



 

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