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  1. #1
    rhmimac's Avatar
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    nikon EM light leaks?

    Got the EM for a bargain prices but the seams look bad.

    Tested and got these pics you see attached.

    Are the white stripes light leaks or a shutter problem?

    Thanks for looking and your opinions.

    rhmimac
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20100703064.jpg   20100703065.jpg   20100703067.jpg   20100703068.jpg   20100703070.jpg  


  2. #2

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    What about the perforated part of the negatives? Are they fogged?

  3. #3

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    If the edges are fogged it's seals. Easy to replace. Interslice on ebat has an excellent reputation or a craft store can sell you a thin rubber mat for a bout $1.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  4. #4
    rhmimac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    If the edges are fogged it's seals. Easy to replace. Interslice on ebat has an excellent reputation or a craft store can sell you a thin rubber mat for a bout $1.
    Yes, the edges are fogged. So it could be saved with replacing the seals.
    I got very fond on this little camera.

    Thanks!

    rhmimac

  5. #5
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    That's definitely light leakage. In my camera repair box I keep an old black rubber mouse mat. With a cutting knife and a ruler, it's easy to cut thin strips from the mat and trim them to the right depth to make excellent light seals. You don't need adhesive ; the trick is to cut the strips a little bit wider than the light seal grooves. As you feed the strip in, pull it lengthwise slightly so that it gets a little thinner, which lets it settle easily in the groove, then it will relax again and form a perfect tight fit. No glue needed. Make sure to allow for the little microswitch (or whatever it's called) that tells the camera the back is closed.

    The Interslice kit is very good, though Jon Goodman has now stopped doing the light seal kit of strips and foam, which you could use to do several cameras of any make, and instead now makes dedicated kits for specific cameras, which are more expensive.

    Far and away the most tedious part of light seal renewing is getting the old seal strips out and cleaning the grooves, not putting the new ones in. This is especially true if the old seals have turned to sticky tar. I use cocktail sticks (the things you stick through cherries or little sausages, though generally not both at the same time) to clean the goo out, then very small strips of rag soaked in methylated spirits worked through the grooves with another cocktail stick to get the grooves perfectly clean. I first used this method on my Contax RTS about a decade ago, and it's still going strong and perfectly light tight. The first time I did it the whole job took about an hour, but that came down to about twenty minutes very quickly. Though at first it may seem tedious, it's actually a pleasing and relaxing job to do on a camera.
    Alex

  6. #6
    rhmimac's Avatar
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    Alex

    I really appreciate sharing your experience here

    I"ll give it a try. I was planning to get Goodman's set for it in order to acquire the chems and dedicated tools.

    Thans again!

    rhmimac

  7. #7

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    If your camera has a little window that reveals the film canister, check the surrounding foam 'doughnut' seal too. Lots of light leaks possible there.
    - Bill Lynch

  8. #8
    CGW
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    Skip the pre-fab or bulk kits. They're absurdly over-priced for some popsicle stix, handholding, and a bit of foam. Nearly all MF Nikon SLR leaks trace back to the hinge side of the back--simply take a look and you'll likely see the problem. No need to fuss with the long channels the back fits into--they're baffled without foam.Use some thin adhesive-backed felt or foam from a craft store. A straight edge, an Xacto or single-edge razor blade and some patience will produce what you need. Lots of online how-to diagrams for cleaning out old gicky foam.

  9. #9
    alexmacphee's Avatar
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    I think the pre-fab kits overpriced, too, but the original Interslice kit wasn't. I paid $10, postpaid to the UK from Texas, for Mr Goodman's kit, which had a pile of useful components, like sealing strips cut to the right and uniform width, foam patches of different thicknesses for mirror damping on different SLRs, and other sheets of different thicknesses that would handle trickier jobs like the Ricoh 500 series. The mirror foam had adhesive backing which could be manipulated easily into place by wetting it. At the time, it cost about the same as the mousemat I cannibalised. The bamboo stick didn't work that well, that was all. That kit was well worth the money, and I wish he'd restore it to his inventory. All the same, these jobs are still eminently possible with the assortment of craft store products, and that's what I use now. The warning about door hinges is a good and timely one.

    At the risk of overloading the original poster with information, here's another useful description of light seal replacement, this time using wool :
    http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt
    Lots of fun for when winter nights begin drawing closer.
    Alex



 

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