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Thread: iso1600 film?

  1. #11

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    This is not intended as a crticism of you but if these are both an accurate scan of the prints then while the first shot is a reasonable advert for Fuji Neopan 1600 B&W, the second as a potential user of this film would give me cause for concern about the featureless highlights on her face and chest. The woodwork in the background is similar but less important.

    It may be my monitor or your scanner but on the original print does her forehead exhibit this patchiness which almost makes her forehead look as if it has a birthmark where the skin lacks pigment. If she does have such a mark then I apologise for drawing attention to it but at least it relieves the film of the blame as it were.

    I don't know how to put it more delicately while still asking the question

    pentaxuser

  2. #12
    lns
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    I get good results pushing Tri-X to 800 or 1600 in either X-Tol or Ilford DD-X developer.

    Fuji makes a beautiful 800 speed color film called Pro 800Z, but I believe it may be discontinued.

    -Laura

  3. #13

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    pentaxuser,

    In the original there's a bit of hair running down her forehead right where the shadow starts. It's making the transition look a little strange. That scan is from the lab. I'll scan it myself and see there's any improvement in the highlights.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by totalmotard View Post
    The fastest film I've shot in color is Fuji 800 press. If you use a flash with it you'll get close to what you want. That will give you some ambient light at least. But the flash needs to be TTL to balance fill. It won't look as good as that photo though, that was probably shot digital @ 3200 iso or better.
    I was about to suggest the same film, but I don't agree with any of the other technical advice.

    1. On-camera flash will never give you the same look as ambient light in such a situation. Not even "close." The only way to get close with flash would be to have flashes on stands in the same general location of the lamps providing the ambient light, and to modify the fixtures in such a way that the quality and color of light is similar to these lamps.
    2. The flash does not need to be TTL metering to balance itself with ambient light. This is a rather bold statement that really could not be much farther from the truth. You will get far better results balancing the two with 100 percent manual exposure (ambient and flash).

    I would also look for remaining stock of Fujicolor Pro 800Z. It has the same speed as the Superia 800, but softer grain and more saturation. In 35mm, I usually opt for the Superia, but the Pro 800Z is (or was) a very amazing film. It will certainly give you something closer to the results you get from a digital camera shot at high ISO, like the one you posted
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 07-16-2010 at 05:38 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  5. #15
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    +1 for Tri-X for B&W, pushed Tri-X imho will beat down Delta 3200, I use Rodinal with, works extremely well, keeps grain nice and fine when done right (only a little agitation+gentle).

    Pro 800/Z is still around, plenty of it, though I look for my film in 120.

    You may want to see if you can order from this site - http://translate.google.com.au/trans...in%2Findex.php

    They dont list all their stuff they sell on ebay, they have some very good deals just on their site

    Ultramax 800
    Portra 800
    Superia 1600

    XTRA 800 can be found on ebay in 35mm

  6. #16
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    Thanks. I think I have enough suggestions to keep me busy all that night.
    Film and digital; best of both worlds. JapanesePhotos.Asia.

  7. #17

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    You can easily get 1600 from Tri-X developed in Diafine, especially if you use a bit of bounced fill flash. If you're going to go with B&W this is a good combo, but the trick is to use a diffused fill flash, preferably off camera. You don't need TTL flash to do this as some would have you believe. All you need is a auto thyristor unit with a translucent dome on it. You don't need a lot of flash, just enough to fill in the deep shadows.
    Frank Schifano

  8. #18

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    I'm with holmburgers. Use a slower speed. Use 1/60 or 1/30. Those drum sticks will show some dynamic motion and you can get away with some 400 speed film.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyp View Post
    I'm with holmburgers. Use a slower speed. Use 1/60 or 1/30. Those drum sticks will show some dynamic motion and you can get away with some 400 speed film.
    Arrrr now that you put it that way... One more week then I can try it at a small festival, and then another week, and try it at a larger one... now I'm more eager than before.
    Film and digital; best of both worlds. JapanesePhotos.Asia.

  10. #20

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    Along with the other recommendations, make sure you're using the fastest lens you can.

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