The 50f1.8 was made in several variations over the years. The last two (marked "Made in Japan" and "Japan") are considered the best. I have tested my MIJ against an earlier model 50f1.8 and it is definately sharper. If you want small, the 40f2 is likely the smallest fullframe 35mm SLR lens ever made. Some folks have been disappointed with the image quality, but mine is very sharp with great color and contrast. All three 28's are well respected, and they give you a free puppy when you buy the f3.5. If you like zooms, the 35-70f3.6 is the best in the range, but large for a Zuiko (I'm being practical. The 35-80f2 is widely considered the best zoom ever made by any company for any camera, but you'll never find one.) The 35-70f3.5-4.5 is well respected, and hardly bigger than a 50mm prime. The 90mmf2 Macro is one of the best lenses you'll ever find.
The list could go on and on, but it is rather pointless without knowing what kind of shooting you do, whether you prefer primes or zooms, etc. Get a lens that suits your shooting style. They are all Zuiko's, they all produce "Heavenly Light".
No. The OM-3 is a completely mechanical camera and you will get the shutter speed and aperture that are pre-set, just like the OM-1. The OM cameras with electronic shutters (OM-2, OM-2N, OM-2S Program, OM-4, and OM-4T) will make an adjustment during exposure and close the shutter based on an Off-The-Film, real time meter reading. Only in Auto mode.
Originally Posted by Les Sarile
And, correct me if I'm wrong, only on speeds slower than 1/60th. On speeds greater than 1/60th, the camera releases the second curtain before the first curtain has reached the other side of the film gate. So, the whole "off-the-plane" metering thing is only effective for slow, tripod-type exposures.
Sorry - you are wrong .
Originally Posted by BetterSense
The various versions of the OM2 and OM4 (and the OM40?) read the light reflected off of both the shutter curtains and the film itself, so they do adjust the time mid exposure.
Oh, and the OM3Ti does offer TTL flash metering, so at least with respect to TTL flash, the camera will cause the flash to make an adjustment during exposure.
Last edited by MattKing; 08-29-2010 at 01:56 AM. Click to view previous post history.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Matt, I disagree.
They read off the first curtain and the film. It does no good to read off the second curtain because its traverse speed cannot be regulated. Once the second curtain is released the exposure will end when it completes its traverse. So exposure timing ends with release of the second curtain (its traverse time is of course figured in to the total timing).
Other designs decide on the exposure at the moment the mirror swings up, freezing the exposure at that point. The OTF timing continues until the moment the second curtain is released. It never stores an exposure time, but relies only on total accumulated light. If an intense light source hit the subject at the instant the second curtain was released, there would be no way to correct for it.
OTF shutter timing is still more effective at higher speeds because the metering system remains active until release of the second curtain, instead of release of the mirror.
Last edited by lxdude; 08-29-2010 at 03:05 AM. Click to view previous post history.
I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.
IMO these threads about lenses can end up with people reporting what they may have read, rather than having used lenses themselves, so many myths and legends can get repeated.
Re my comment earlier that the 35-70 f4 is the lens I most often take out with my OM, yet many will tell you its just a "cheap consumer lens", so I thought posting this little example might help. This is unaltered straight from the neg scan. The signpost is pretty readable considering its small size in the original n'est pas?
You can get the 35-70 f4 for around $40. Its a steal.
Last edited by mr rusty; 08-29-2010 at 04:42 AM. Click to view previous post history.
I don't think there is anything like the perfect lens but for my OM2n I have a 50mm MIJ which it came with, but mostly I shoot the Zuiko 28mm f/3.5 which is a real stunner of a lens, slow maximum aperture but sharp wide open (if it can be called wide open!) and very small. Worth getting the hood mind, but one of the best wide angles I have ever used.
I also use the 100mm f/2.8 a lot, a heck of a lot, it's a great lens, handles brilliantly and is not all that much bigger than a 50mm, and certainly doesn't have the presence that many a short telephoto lens usually has which is great for discrete street shooting.
So for me, the 28mm, 50mm and 100mm package is a real winner, even more criminal is the whole lot probably cost me about £140 all in.
Usually I use 3.5/21, 2/40, 8/500 mirror and 6.5/600. 2/40 and OM-1n is the first combination and 6.5/600 with OM-4Ti is the second one.
Zuiko 2/40 is a superb lens.
Check this link http://olympus.dementia.org/
Mopar_guy - Of course you're right about the OM-3 not having aperture priority AE mode as I don't even have one to test! It must have slipped out as I have been trying to acquire one to complete my OM single digit series!