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  1. #11
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    Just be aware that many of these old flashes touted above can have whopping trigger voltages that could stir-fry your F100s electronics. Strobist is a great site but most of their set-ups are reliant on radio slaves--a good way to get around the voltage issue with old flash gear.

    CGW gets it! That is why is specifically recommended the Nikon SB800 and Nikon SB900.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #12
    MattKing's Avatar
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    One further warning - some of the radio slave receivers are also sensitive to higher trigger voltages. It is, of course, better to fry a receiver than it is to fry a camera.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  3. #13
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    what is the safe Metz flash would be ? Metz 60CT-4 ok?
    Multum egerunt, qui ante nos fuerunt, sed non peregedunt.

  4. #14
    MattKing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vedmak View Post
    what is the safe Metz flash would be ? Metz 60CT-4 ok?
    This site has a lot of useful information, and seems to have remained current over time:

    http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

    It indicates that the 60CT-4 should be fine.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  5. #15

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    I used the Metz 60CT4 with the Nikon F3 and F5 all the time and there is no problem. I also used it with the FM as well as the coolpix 5000 with no problem. Buying the SB600 and or SB900 is a waiste of money especially you want to use the new flash meter. I have the right adapters so that I can use the 60CT4 in TTL mode with both the F3 and the F5 but it's much more fun to use it in manual mode with the flash meter. The CT4 in manual mode has power settings from full power down to 1/256 power in 1/3 stop increments. A total of 27 steps.

  6. #16
    mablo's Avatar
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    F100 is so good with a Nikon TTL flash that you won't need anything else. Read the manual carefully and be happy.

  7. #17

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    I use a pair of SB600s with my N80. You can get a wireless commander and position them anywhere you like. Nikon's flash tech is the best, bar none. I've used an assistant as a walking light stand at weddings.
    Steve Long

    my blog: http://wayofuncertainty.com/

  8. #18
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chan Tran View Post
    I used the Metz 60CT4 with the Nikon F3 and F5 all the time and there is no problem. I also used it with the FM as well as the coolpix 5000 with no problem. Buying the SB600 and or SB900 is a waiste of money especially you want to use the new flash meter. I have the right adapters so that I can use the 60CT4 in TTL mode with both the F3 and the F5 but it's much more fun to use it in manual mode with the flash meter. The CT4 in manual mode has power settings from full power down to 1/256 power in 1/3 stop increments. A total of 27 steps.
    With the SB600, SB800 or SB900, there is no reason to buy a flash meter. Better to spend the money on film.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #19
    Nicholas Lindan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vedmak View Post
    I recently got a sekonic flash meter, and now want to go shoot some pics where the flash would be needed
    Maybe a better thread title would be "What is a good flash for my new Sekonic Flash Meter?"

    A good flash for an F3/F100 would be one that uses the TTL capabilities of either camera to the max. Which leaves no room at all for a flash meter.

    Flash meters go well with studio flash, not on-camera flash.

    The most cost-effective studio flash units are 'monolights'.

    Alien Bees are highly thought of. However, there are lots of really cheap Chinese monolight kits flooding the market.
    DARKROOM AUTOMATION
    f-Stop Timers - Enlarging Meters
    http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm

  10. #20
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    No matter how "sophisticated" it is, TTL flash is still metered through the lens based on reflected light from the subject. It has the same inherent drawback of all TTL metering systems; no number of fancy features or computer programming short of a direct linkup to the shooter's brain will ever be able to overcome it. Namely, the problem is less than ideal, but mostly passable, subject/composition-based exposures most of the time. On the other hand, you will almost always get an ideal exposure with a correctly-used incident flash meter, regardless of the details of the subject/composition that will throw a reflected meter astray.

    I do agree that using a flash to shoot hand held moving things at constantly changing distances and compositions is not conducive to using a hand-held light meter, and the advantages of TTL flash metering may outweigh its disadvantages in this case. I was assuming that the OP knew this, and had more planned out, off-camera flash use in mind.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 12-07-2010 at 08:48 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

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