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  1. #21
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Ok, throw another camera in the mix. I picked up a 28mm f2.8 Yashica ML lens for my Yashica FX-3. Realizing I use the Nikkor zoom on 28 almost alll the time.

    8 more rolls processed yesterday and again, the Nikkor is pretty fantastic in comparison, with excellent edge sharpness at 28mm. The Yashica has an edge in sharpness in the central area, but there is the typical pattern of oblong blur in the tree leaves in the upper corners.

  2. #22
    Roger Thoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baachitraka View Post
    I am looking for an consumer level SLR with a spot meter from Nikon.
    N8008s to name one. Just picked up my second one for $25 off Craigslist.

    Roger

  3. #23
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    Quick question on the N75, what battery does it take? Reason I ask is I have a N6006 which take a odd/expensive battery verses my N8008s which takes 4 AA's.

    Roger

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Thoms View Post
    Quick question on the N75, what battery does it take? Reason I ask is I have a N6006 which take a odd/expensive battery verses my N8008s which takes 4 AA's.

    Roger
    2 CR2's
    In life you only get one great dog, one great car, and one great woman. Pet the dog. Drive the car. Make love to the woman. Don't mix them up.

  5. #25
    Roger Thoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfeye View Post
    2 CR2's

    Thanks for the info.

    Roger

  6. #26
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    I kept looking until I found a body being sold with the 4-AA 'grip' that fits on the bottom. I guess these are camera-specific so the one for the N75 is MB-18. It is not that this grip it that hard to find, it is that when found it frequently costs more than the $35 you paid for the camera body

  7. #27
    Roger Thoms's Avatar
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    That's good to know, I really like the option to us AA or AAA batteries.

    Roger

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by baachitraka View Post
    I am looking for an consumer level SLR with a spot meter from Nikon.
    N or F80
    If I had been present at the creation, I would have given some useful hints for the better arrangement of the Universe.
    Alfonso the Wise, 1221-1284

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    FILM SPEED:

    The camera only shoots at ISO 100, so you have to use the exposure compensation dial (+/- 3 stops).
    Are you sure it doesn't just revert to ISO 100 when the cassette isn't DX coded with the ISO? Otherwise it just reads the ISO off the cassette and uses the proper ISO for the film.
    If I had been present at the creation, I would have given some useful hints for the better arrangement of the Universe.
    Alfonso the Wise, 1221-1284

  10. #30
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnywalker View Post
    Are you sure it doesn't just revert to ISO 100 when the cassette isn't DX coded with the ISO? Otherwise it just reads the ISO off the cassette and uses the proper ISO for the film.
    I have never used the DX system, so I don't have any DX cassettes. If you did have a DX cassette it would read it. Due to the way the very nice matrix metering works, it will likely expose correctly at the ISO speed setting of the cassette. Thus, perhaps lending credence to all the people that post "I use ISO settings and get well exposed images."

    Again I want to emphasize that this matrix metering is fantastic. It is based and all the correct principles and automatically checks for your low zones and 'spots' them. I hate automatic stuff, but this really works.

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