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  1. #21
    Tony-S's Avatar
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    I have a high-quality PDF of the manual if you need it. It's preformatted 4x6" for double-sided printing. The images are all the same, but the text is real fonts, not scans. The cover is a bit different, too. Prints very clean. I also have a PDF of the repair manual.

  2. #22
    spacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony-S View Post
    I have a high-quality PDF of the manual if you need it. It's preformatted 4x6" for double-sided printing. The images are all the same, but the text is real fonts, not scans. The cover is a bit different, too. Prints very clean. I also have a PDF of the repair manual.
    I downloaded those from somewhere, but yeah, the scans I downloaded aren't all that great. I'd really appreciate those a lot.

  3. #23
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    Hama came back with a $125/2 week estimate, which is way outta my price range for this camera. Another outfit in California gave me a $65 estimate for just the shutter work.

    I'm gonna keep 'em in mind, but I still have until we finish the move before I have to make a firm decision, unless I let boredom get the best of me. I picked up a fresh bottle of lighter fluid today... maybe my subconscious is telling me to just "get 'er done".

    Come to think of it... I'm seriously starting to consider pursuing an independent education in classic camera repair, if only as a weekend sideline. I used to be an airplane mechanic, though nothing I worked on there was as delicate as a camera's innards, it's a decent start.

  4. #24

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    $125 + the $25 that you originally paid is not a bad price for a GIII that will look and perform like new. And that CLA by Hama would certainly help if you ever decided to sell the camera.

  5. #25
    Ken Nadvornick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elcabezagrande View Post
    $125 + the $25 that you originally paid is not a bad price for a GIII that will look and perform like new. And that CLA by Hama would certainly help if you ever decided to sell the camera.
    Wise words...

    Ken
    "Hate is an adolescent term used to stop discussion with people you disagree with. You can do better than that."
    —'blanksy', December 13, 2013

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Nadvornick View Post
    Wise words...

    Ken
    I agree. It ain't easy bein' cheap. I'm gonna have to ponder for a bit. The main thing keeping me from digging in right now is the condition of the camera as it sits. As I mentioned earlier, if it was a little rough, I'd gleefully dive in headfirst.

  7. #27
    Ken Nadvornick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spacer View Post
    The main thing keeping me from digging in right now is the condition of the camera as it sits. As I mentioned earlier, if it was a little rough, I'd gleefully dive in headfirst.
    In spite of a few posts here to the contrary, the Canonet QL17 G-III is reputedly one of the more difficult cameras to home service. Tolerances are very tight and the word seems to be that they are much easier to disassemble than to reassemble. There is a lot of overlapping mechanical functionality crammed into that tiny body.

    The earlier suggestion to read up ahead of time over on the RFF is a good one. I have done so myself (I also own a G-III) and recall reading about the experiences of more than a few who tried a DIY shutter repair and ended up throwing in the towel and eventually purchasing another copy.

    Just something to think about...

    Ken
    "Hate is an adolescent term used to stop discussion with people you disagree with. You can do better than that."
    —'blanksy', December 13, 2013

  8. #28
    spacer's Avatar
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    You guys are right. This camera's going to go to a pro for a real fix. Looking at the best examples I'm seeing for sale, I'll still be doing pretty well, cost-wise, and as I'm pretty easy on hardware, the camera will probably outlast me.

    Still wanna find a cheap clunker to work on, though.

  9. #29

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    If you want to get a clunker to work on to get your feet wet on home camera repair, I suggest looking for a Konica Auto S2 with a sticky shutter/aperture. You can usually find such for $15 or less, and they are quite easy to put back into working order, and well worth the effort; even without working electronics, the S2 can be used in full manual mode, either with a hand-held meter or using sunny 16. That Hexanon lens is one of the best on any fixed-lens rangefinder, regardless of the cost. Minolta Hi-Matic 7S, 9, and 11 also have great lenses, and it is also pretty straightforward getting into the shutter and aperture to clean them.

  10. #30
    Tony-S's Avatar
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    While we're on the GIII 17, I just got a used one and there are a couple of things I either can't figure out, or are defective.

    First, I have tried two batteries, a Wein cell and a 675 silver oxide in a MR9 adapter, but the battery check lamp will not illuminate. The batteries are good as they function in my F-1.

    Second, it appears the meter isn't metering - perhaps because of the same battery issue? I point it straight at a fluorescent light while set to 'A' and the needle will not move to an aperture; it just moves slightly but remains at the top.

    Third, when set to 'A' the shutter will not release. Since it's coupled to the meter, could this also be because of the battery?

    Thanks for any help!

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