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  1. #11

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    Again, I need to consult my notebook, but I'm pretty sure I was using ASA 1. Which was giving me negatives that appeared correct-ish (in the context of the entire thing being too thin) somewhere near the center point of my bracketing. I'll update this once I get home tonight and consult my notes.

    Duncan

  2. #12

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    I was remembering the development specs that I have tried correctly.

    I metered it at ASA 1, and the best exposure was two stops overexposed from that, meaning ASA 0.25 or so. A whole buncha light, in other words.

    Here's the best image so far (note that I could probably fix it up a bit in PhotoShop but I've scanned it with no correction and it's a pretty fair representation of what the film looks like in real life.) Also note that I'm shooting 2360, which is the Estar-based version of 5360.

    Duncan


  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by frobozz View Post
    I don't have my notes here with me, but here's what I think I've done, from memory.

    A lot of these motion picture films I'm messing with spec D-97 as the developer, but they usually say something like "adjust developing time to give desired gamma" or whatever, without even giving a range of times. But for one of them I did find a suggested time of 3:30 at 70 degrees...

    I don't have the chemicals to make D-97 but I did get my hands on some cans of Selectol, which is a close fake. I mixed a stock solution, and then diluted it 1:1 as a working solution and did various films for 3:30 at 70 degrees. Most of them came out just dandy, except for the 5360. which was very thin.

    So then I tried 7:00 at 70 degrees. Better, but still very thin. So then I tried straight stock solution for 7:00 at 70 degrees. MUCH better, but still a tad thin. I think I'm going to just start over again with a more normal developer, probably ID-11. The Selectol-as-D-97-substitute was just to get a known baseline before switching developers, but since I'm failing at that in this case I might as well just switch to ID-11 and stop wasting my time with the Selectol.

    Duncan
    Do you think Selectol Soft would work better as it is a reduced contrast developer. Shooting at iso 1 and souping in Selectol soft(stock) for 7-8 minutes might produce a more substantial negative.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick A View Post
    Do you think Selectol Soft would work better as it is a reduced contrast developer. Shooting at iso 1 and souping in Selectol soft(stock) for 7-8 minutes might produce a more substantial negative.
    Probably worth a shot, but my grand plan for all of these was to switch to one of my normal film developers in the end; I was just trying the paper developer to begin with to be able to get an initial toehold on the films' characteristics by using processing similar to what they get as movie film.

    Duncan

  5. #15

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    Okay, shot my first roll today. Choose to start at 1/60 f/1.8 on my AE-1, then went one stop up at a time (1.8/2/4/5.6/8/11). Came home, threw it in the phototherm with TMAX Developer for 3:15 - the film is blank. So I went back outside and shot f/1.8 at 2 seconds, 1 second, 1/2 second ... all the way to 1/30. And I threw in a couple bulb exposures 4 seconds and 8 seconds. It's souping now in the phototherm again. We'll see how this works...

  6. #16

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    My second run is done. I have images on the film, but they are thin. I'm going to give it a few more tries.

  7. #17

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    If the images are thin, you need more development. The rebates should be black no matter what exposures you used on the pictures.

    Duncan

  8. #18

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    I got thin shots at f/1.8 1/15 and slower. The film actually seems to have a good bit of latitude. I'm going to try again today with a longer development time.

  9. #19

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    I'm not sure how bright the light is where you're shooting but yeah, 1/60 at 1.8 sounded like way too little exposure to me for ASA 1 film. I'm shooting outdoors in bright light. I'm using small apertures to get lots of depth of field and then varying the times, but on the overexposed end of my bracketing I'm sometimes needing to use B and time it, since my camera only goes up to 8 seconds with the built in speeds!

    Duncan

  10. #20
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    For copy purpose Kodak recommends a 1000w bulb and ground glass for diffusion, so it must be a very S-L-O-W emulsion. It looks like iso 1 and very long development time to bring out any decent exposure.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

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