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  1. #1

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    Kodak 5360 MP Film...It's RED?

    Okay, so got three bulk rolls on that auction site for a buck a piece, figured the cans and spools are worth that, so I get the film, through it in a bulk loader and... IT's RED?

    Oddest thing I've seen - and I'll admit, I haven't seen much. It's a low ISO film, I spooled up a reel and am going to go shoot it at ISO 6 tomorrow, but any thoughts on shooting this film for photography? Or did I wast my cash?

  2. #2
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Well, TMAX is distinctly pink-colored. Neopan is plain grey and Foma is blue. I never understood how films could be such different colors and all still work.
    f/22 and be there.

  3. #3
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    You are aware that's a direct reversal duplication film, yes?
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  4. #4
    michaelbsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlbertZeroK View Post
    ..... Or did I wast my cash?
    Nah. The spools and cans are worth that much. Remember.

    If you get free usable film it's a bonus!
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

  5. #5

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    It's direct reversal, and it takes a whale of a lot of development - I'm still trying to find a combo I'm happy with, but using devs and temps that work on normal negative films don't develop it nearly enough.

    I highly recommend a water bath before development to get rid of the red dye. I just keep filling and agitating and dumping until the water runs clear. The first batch I ran without a prewash was still bleeding red all the way into the fix part of the process.

    Duncan

  6. #6
    Rick A's Avatar
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    It's a low speed orthochromatic motion picture film. I'll try to find an appropriate developer and time for it.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum

  7. #7

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    Thanks guys!

    The funny thing is by the time I've figured it out, I'll have used it all up! LOL

  8. #8

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    Well you have something like 54 36-exposure rolls there, so you may just figure it out before using it up :-) I've got a couple of thousand feet of it, I am quite sure I'll figure it out before using it up!

    Duncan

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick A View Post
    It's a low speed orthochromatic motion picture film. I'll try to find an appropriate developer and time for it.
    I don't have my notes here with me, but here's what I think I've done, from memory.

    A lot of these motion picture films I'm messing with spec D-97 as the developer, but they usually say something like "adjust developing time to give desired gamma" or whatever, without even giving a range of times. But for one of them I did find a suggested time of 3:30 at 70 degrees...

    I don't have the chemicals to make D-97 but I did get my hands on some cans of Selectol, which is a close fake. I mixed a stock solution, and then diluted it 1:1 as a working solution and did various films for 3:30 at 70 degrees. Most of them came out just dandy, except for the 5360. which was very thin.

    So then I tried 7:00 at 70 degrees. Better, but still very thin. So then I tried straight stock solution for 7:00 at 70 degrees. MUCH better, but still a tad thin. I think I'm going to just start over again with a more normal developer, probably ID-11. The Selectol-as-D-97-substitute was just to get a known baseline before switching developers, but since I'm failing at that in this case I might as well just switch to ID-11 and stop wasting my time with the Selectol.

    Duncan

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by frobozz View Post
    I don't have my notes here with me, but here's what I think I've done, from memory.

    A lot of these motion picture films I'm messing with spec D-97 as the developer, but they usually say something like "adjust developing time to give desired gamma" or whatever, without even giving a range of times. But for one of them I did find a suggested time of 3:30 at 70 degrees...

    I don't have the chemicals to make D-97 but I did get my hands on some cans of Selectol, which is a close fake. I mixed a stock solution, and then diluted it 1:1 as a working solution and did various films for 3:30 at 70 degrees. Most of them came out just dandy, except for the 5360. which was very thin.

    So then I tried 7:00 at 70 degrees. Better, but still very thin. So then I tried straight stock solution for 7:00 at 70 degrees. MUCH better, but still a tad thin. I think I'm going to just start over again with a more normal developer, probably ID-11. The Selectol-as-D-97-substitute was just to get a known baseline before switching developers, but since I'm failing at that in this case I might as well just switch to ID-11 and stop wasting my time with the Selectol.

    Duncan
    Well, I have a photo therm and hope to get something working with it. i have ID-11, TMax, HC110 and Rodinal in my dark room now, but I think the TMax developer is what I've got mixed now. As soon as I get my photo-therm hooked up on it's new stand and get my bottles straight, I'll try. In the mean time, what ISO are you shooting at? I was going to take a roll out today and get some shots at various speeds to see how it develops.

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