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  1. #11
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in Kansas View Post
    the FE2 is overexposing by exactly one stop.
    Multiply your ISO/ASA setting you had been using by 2 and set the camera to the product.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Hermanson View Post
    I calibrate meters to my shutter tester and ...
    Out of curiousity, how often does a shutter tester in a camera repair environment get calibrated? I have vague recollection from a job long ago in which we were doing photometric light measurement in a scientific environment that our photometers were factory calibrated and certified annually, and before each use we "re-calibrated" using a known standard -- something like calcium carbonate.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave in Kansas View Post
    I suppose the best way to confirm the FE2 metering is to load a roll of slide film and make test pictures under a variety of lighting conditions and various EI settings and then look at the results.
    It may show some useful differences.

    Cinematography lenses are calibrated in T-stops: Transmission stops, so that variations in density of glass and other aspects are accounted for. I assume no UV or other filter is involved with the FE2 metering.

    It could be question of Nikon linkages or electrical connectivity, depending on the camera and the vintage / series of lenses involved. Do you have multiple lenses for the camera or can you borrow some? If you have just one lens, can you borrow another FE2 to see if it is the camera or the lens or both that are out of adjustment or somehow dim?

  4. #14

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    John,

    I didn't see your reply until after my last post. You overhauled my OM-2 last year and the meter seemed to be accurate when I sent it to you and now I think it is even better, or at least as good. I'm very pleased with your work and glad to know you tested it under multiple light levels.

    Thanks,

    Dave

  5. #15

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    Brian,

    I am glad you asked about calibration of testing equipment and I have been wondering about that as well. I have suspicions about the testing equipment in one of my local shops. I took a medium format in for some focusing problems and the fellow told me he adjusted the metering. The metering on that camera is most definitely off now, overexposing by at least one stop.

    Honestly, I only used a zoom lens when experimenting with the Nikon, but was recently given a 50mm so I should really check it with this one as well.

    Dave

  6. #16

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    I don't judge a meter accuracy by simply shoot film in the camera. There are many factors that would influence the result and not just the meter.
    1. Is the published film speed accurate and/or is it what you want?
    2. Is the shutter acccurate?
    3. Metering pattern and metering technique affect exposure a lot more than anything else.
    4. In Automode, Indicated shutter speed and acctually shutter speed may not be the same or even close sometimes.
    5. The T stop thingy.

  7. #17

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    In theory the tester should be calibrated annually. Most shops can't or won't spend the money or more importantly can't afford the "down time" to have it done.
    Some of the testers also have "K" factors for different camera brands. We usually ignored it.
    The older Nikons used a 60/40 pattern for metering. 60% in the 12mm circle and 40% on the rest of the finder. It's a center weighted system and probably won't agree with any camera that uses an averaging or spot metering system. Gray card won't read correctly unless you carefully read the instructions that came with it.
    As I recall the card should be held at an angle to the subject for a proper reading.(60 degrees?)
    Apples & oranges. you can't compare normal and telephoto lenses and expect the same result.
    You can have proper automatic exposure with an incorrect indicated exposure as Chan Tran said.

    Use one meter and ignore the readings on the other three or remove the batteries or as was suggested earlier, just live with it.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  8. #18
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    The older Nikons used a 60/40 pattern for metering. 60% in the 12mm circle and 40% on the rest of the finder. It's a center weighted system and probably won't agree with any camera that uses an averaging or spot metering system. Gray card won't read correctly unless you carefully read the instructions that came with it.

    Using the piece-of-white-paper-taped-on-a-window method I described earlier, I get consistent readings from lenses ranging from 15mm to 600mm (1200mm with a 2x) and camera bodies of all kinds (spot, semi-spot, matrix, center weighted, averaging), naturally within the limits of any individual meter accuracies and lens T-stop variations.
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  9. #19

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    Yes Rol_Lei! Your technique eliminates the differences between metering patterns.

  10. #20
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    Matrix Metering in my F4 and F100 are excellent. Other than that; I prefer a Hand Held Meter
    " A loving and caring heart is the beginning of all knowledge " ~ Thomas Carlyle ~

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