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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin Corneau View Post
    Nikon AF lenses work just fine on FM's. It's the G series that don't.
    Thanks, for a second I thought I had made a mistake buying the FM :P

  2. #12
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    To me, an F seems like the best choice for shooting star trails, or long exposures in general. It's about as straightforward as it gets. No batteries to run out. Just put the camera on T and shoot (or use B and a locking cable release). They are also cheap for the amount of quality you get.

    The problem with my suggestion is that I am not up to speed on the various Nikon lens designations, so I don't know if an AF-D lens has an aperture ring or not. If not, please ignore everything I've said...
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  3. #13
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    AF & AF-D have aperture rings. The "D" in an afd stands for distance information that is relayed to the camera for flash calculations.

    The newer ultrasonic type motor "G" lenses do not have aperture rings.

  4. #14
    Colin Corneau's Avatar
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    FM's are all manual, just like the old F's were. FM2's are the same and newer, to boot.

    They have the advantage of being smaller, usually cheaper, and being newer than an F or F2 are usually (I say usually) in better shape.
    "Never criticize someone until you've walked a mile in their shoes. That way, you're a mile away and you've got their shoes."

    MY BLOG - www.reservedatalltimes.com
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  5. #15

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    n6006, has the T setting on it and has AF
    5x7 Eastman-Kodak kit / B+M 135mm Zeiss Tessar + Compur Deckel
    RB67 Pro S / 90 3.8 / WLF / prism finder / polaback
    FED-2 / 50 2.8 Industar 26m / 85 f2 Jupiter-9
    Canon 300v / 5D d*****l / L lenses

  6. #16
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j-dogg View Post
    n6006, has the T setting on it and has AF
    AF for shooting star trails? Hmmmm....

    Maybe you could also use a built-in flash!
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  7. #17
    Jesper's Avatar
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    Using the built in flash would demand some serious calculations.
    1. Shoot the flash.
    2. Go back home and calculate the distance to see in what year you should be back to open the shutter (in case any of you photons would make it back).

    I like the idea

  8. #18
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    On a more serious note, from what I know of astrophotography (admittedly, not much), maybe it would be better to choose the lens first, then the camera.

    While any lens which is sharp in the corners and has low distortion (for example, the Micro-Nikkor 55 2.8 AI - good also at infinity) should do, for best results, a lens which is good for night photography should be chosen.
    This often includes, but is not limited to, "Noct" lenses. Apparently the trick is low coma and flare/reflections.
    Also, many non-Noct lenses which do well are not made by Nikon. As it's a relatively small group of lenses, maybe you should do some more investigating, there are some astrophography sites, or repharse your original question.

    Have fun!
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rol_Lei Nut View Post
    On a more serious note, from what I know of astrophotography (admittedly, not much), maybe it would be better to choose the lens first, then the camera.

    While any lens which is sharp in the corners and has low distortion (for example, the Micro-Nikkor 55 2.8 AI - good also at infinity) should do, for best results, a lens which is good for night photography should be chosen.
    This often includes, but is not limited to, "Noct" lenses. Apparently the trick is low coma and flare/reflections.
    Also, many non-Noct lenses which do well are not made by Nikon. As it's a relatively small group of lenses, maybe you should do some more investigating, there are some astrophography sites, or repharse your original question.

    Have fun!
    Standard 50mm F1.8 Nikkor is your best bet. Use a piece of tape to lock the lens at infinity. A heavy duty tripod with a good lockable head and maybe some sand bags. If you use a nice quality locking cable release and a piece of card in front of the lens you don't need mirror lock:just set the speed to B with the card over the lens, lock the shutter open and then remove the card. Try 75 minutes at f 5.6 for a clear sky beginning 2 hours after sundown facing North using 400Asa film . If you are shooting during a full moon you may pick up lunar illumination. Aircraft will also leave trails.

    David

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rol_Lei Nut View Post
    AF for shooting star trails? Hmmmm....

    Maybe you could also use a built-in flash!
    you never know, some green guys from Mars might show up, don't wanna miss the photographic opportunity
    5x7 Eastman-Kodak kit / B+M 135mm Zeiss Tessar + Compur Deckel
    RB67 Pro S / 90 3.8 / WLF / prism finder / polaback
    FED-2 / 50 2.8 Industar 26m / 85 f2 Jupiter-9
    Canon 300v / 5D d*****l / L lenses

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