If you're looking for something small, either the SB-18 or SB-30 will fit the bill. SB-23 also works. If you want something with bounce capabilities that's still somewhat small, check the SB-15 out. Bounces upward when the flash is right side up, bounces to the right if it's vertical, or downward for macro work if it's upside down. The SB-27 is the more powerful, more modern version of the same. With that flash unit, the bounce features are the opposite and are handled by a bounce card. If you're looking for a more conventional flash that does TTL, there's the SB-16B, the SB-20, 22, 22s, 24, 25, 26, 28, 28DX, 50DX, 80DX, 600, and 800. All those are shoe-mount and have a bounce head, but aren't shaped like a horizontal pack that sits on top of the camera. You can also get by with the SB-11 and SB-14, if you use the SC-23 cable. Macro is handled by the SB-21B, the SB-29, and the SB-29s.
APUG: F3P, F2AS, FM2n
Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D2x), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2 AI, 35/2 O, 50/1.4 S, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS
- My flickr stream
You can pick up SB-15's for very little from ebay if you are lucky. I paid £5 for mine a few years ago. Compact & great bang for the buck. You don't notice it in a coat pocket, unlike when lugging an SB-16 around. I tend to prefer the older flashes with my M/F Nikons. The SB-27 is a nice flash as well. The built in diffuser is handy. I use one with my A/F Nikons. Both the SB-15 & SB-27 can do bounce flash true, but if you plan on using flash a lot it has the be the SB-16 for me with an old M/F Nikon.
NAS sufferer with far too much Nikon kit.
The SB27 is probably the most capable and affordable for the FM3a with its TTL metering capability. Those fence post-like SB 16s are relics. They're getting pricier but keep an eye open also for an SB-25 or SB-28.
I recently got a beater SB28 for $65. Comments as follows;
1) Still works great with obvious signs of a hard prior life
2) Works in auto mode on all my manual cameras, from Horseman to TLR to Polaroid to 16mm Minoltas to Rollei 35.
3) Works with my widest lenses (Goes up to 18mm equivalent coverage)
4) Safe for all the modern electronic cameras and provides all the functionality for the last generation of Nikon film cameras.
5) Pretty powerful (though weaker than my Potato mashers).
I like the power and flexibility of the SB800. It zooms from 24mm to 105mm, tilts up and down, swivels right and left.
Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
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SB16, I use one on my F3. They are many around, in both variations, you would want the B standard iso hotshoe model. I got mine for about $35 brand new, with included wide adapter and case. TTL metering!
It has a smaller forward facing accessory flash that is great for when using the larger head in a bounce.
I just finished testing my FM3A + SB16B combination using my Sekonic and the result is perfect. For instance with the SB16 set TTL at film ISO speed and the FM3A in manual mode, shutter at 1/250 and aperture at f8 with a 50mm and the Sekonic meters f8 if I am 4 feet away or 10 feet away. Other aperture settings results shows that the Sekonic meter reading corresponds exactly with the aperture set regardless of distance to the meter. I am sure this is true within the power range of the SB16. I tried this same test with the SB16B on my other Nikon TTL capable bodies (F3+AS-17, FE2, FA & FG) and none metered exactly like the FM3A. Of course at this point I am not sure if that is normal behavior or cameras are off. I also tried this test with the SB-15 on all these TTL bodies and not even the FM3A meters perfectly as it did with the SB16B. In this case I don't know if this is normal behavior or the SB-15 is off.
Anyway my FM3A + SB16B combination is a tested perfect combination so it is now my chosen on-camera flash setup.
That SB-30 looks like it is just enough to cause redeye . . .