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  1. #31
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stark_674 View Post
    BUT, Now I want to have the possibility to shot only using a needle at maximum on a camera that may be full mechanical. I read that F2 was produced using something like 1500 pieces, 600 more than a F. They tried to produce the execellence on mechanical technology, and maybe this is what I am seraching for.
    The various F2 models are the same body (or essentially, so, some small tweaks may have been introduced over the years), with the prism determining the model.

    If you are really after the "execellence on mechanical technology", I can only repeat my Leicaflex SL reccomendation. It really is a step above the F2 and the F.
    The SL2 is even more of a mechanical marvel, but would be over budget.
    As pointed out, lenses will usually be more expensive than Nikon ones, though not as much as legend has it.

    Re Spotmatic: lovely camera, but viewfinder is a bit dark. Also, if you change lenses often, screw mount is a PITA.

    Also, depending on which lenses you're using on your Contax and Rolleiflex, you might find Nikon lenses to be a step down, though if you choose very wisely, that can be minimized. Unfortunately Rolleiflex's mechanical SLRs (SL-35 and SL-35M) are neither jewels nor tanks. While not a mechanical jewel by any means,your SL-35E is actually a very sweet camera - as long as it keeps working. I use mine a lot!
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rol_Lei Nut View Post
    The various F2 models are the same body (or essentially, so, some small tweaks may have been introduced over the years), with the prism determining the model.

    If you are really after the "execellence on mechanical technology", I can only repeat my Leicaflex SL reccomendation. It really is a step above the F2 and the F.
    The SL2 is even more of a mechanical marvel, but would be over budget.
    As pointed out, lenses will usually be more expensive than Nikon ones, though not as much as legend has it.

    Re Spotmatic: lovely camera, but viewfinder is a bit dark. Also, if you change lenses often, screw mount is a PITA.

    Also, depending on which lenses you're using on your Contax and Rolleiflex, you might find Nikon lenses to be a step down, though if you choose very wisely, that can be minimized. Unfortunately Rolleiflex's mechanical SLRs (SL-35 and SL-35M) are neither jewels nor tanks. While not a mechanical jewel by any means,your SL-35E is actually a very sweet camera - as long as it keeps working. I use mine a lot!
    An EX+ condition F2 will be over budget, one with a non metered DE-1 is about 5 times the SL2.
    FM2 is probably the best choice

  3. #33
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    The OP wanted a needle display, no LEDs, so if that still holds the FM2 is out.

  4. #34
    cmo
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    A Nikon F plus a few lenses within a budget of $300?

    Where do you get that?

    A working mechanic Nikon on a budget - did someone say "Nikkormat"? They are really cheap these days, and they are great cameras.
    The future belongs to the few of us still willing to get our hands smell like fixing bath.

  5. #35
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    " A loving and caring heart is the beginning of all knowledge " ~ Thomas Carlyle ~

  6. #36

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    As I was not the first....

    Nikkormat FT3, should like a rock and takes modern batteries.

    A black body FT3 and three Nikkor lenses (28/2.8 AIs, 85/1.8 AIed, 300/4.5 ED/IF) is my favorite SLR kit.

    Almost as solid as an F/F2.

    B2

    B2

  7. #37
    fstop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmo View Post
    A Nikon F plus a few lenses within a budget of $300?

    Where do you get that?

    A working mechanic Nikon on a budget - did someone say "Nikkormat"? They are really cheap these days, and they are great cameras.
    One of the F/FTNs I got came with a 50mm 1.4 and case easy EX and works. Shutter speeds are close enough.Less than $100 off ebay and got 200mm in the case for under $75 wides are out there too.

    The OP wanted a needle display, no LEDs, so if that still holds the FM2 is out.
    That rules out the good F2's also.

  8. #38
    CGW
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    The strictly mechanical requirement really boxes the OP in, limiting them to elderly, expensive models, most of them due for pricey overhauls. I've happily shot many FE/FM variants with no breakdowns of any kind. They're solid, plentiful and cheap even in EX+ condition. No weird battery issues, either. Many have remarkably few miles on them.

  9. #39
    Pumalite's Avatar
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    I suspect that if the OP wants an F2; he will get one. I would.
    " A loving and caring heart is the beginning of all knowledge " ~ Thomas Carlyle ~

  10. #40
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Some of the cameras mentioned in this thread were designed to use banned mercury cells for their meters (F, Spotmatic, Leicaflexes).

    However, that is no problems at all.
    There are various solutions.

    1) Just put in a modern alkaline or silver cell, using a rubber O-ring or a wad of aluminium foil to make it fit. Some cameras, like the Spotmatic, use meter circuits which are relatively insensitive to voltage variation, so even an alkaline cell, which changes its voltage over its life, will still give accurate results. Other cameras vary in their reaction to using the "wrong" voltage, but in most cases the result will still be accurate enough for most uses using negative film.
    Using a silver cell instead and compensating the meter reading, or re-adjusting the meter (very easy to do on a Photomic), readings can be spot-on.

    2) Use a silver cell (LR44) with an adapter containing a diode (CRIS is the best known brand, but many others, including DIY, exist).
    No compensation or re-adjustment needed. The adapter isn't super-cheap, but use is very easy (it's what I use).

    3) Use a Wein cell. Relatively expensive and short life, but no fiddling involved.

    4) Use a hearing aid battery. Basically a cheap Wein cell, but needs rubber O-ring or wad of alu foil to fit. Very cheap when bought in bulk.


    Very simple really...

    The "battery issue" is only such for nay-saying armchair experts, but is certainly not an important factor for choosing a body in real life.
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

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