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  1. #1
    alexfoto's Avatar
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    MINOX GT, erratic metering?

    -Hello all, i have the above camera for two months, i bought for care with me every day in my pocket, the problem with that camera is the metering in direct sunlight, when the sun hits the sensor the camera always underexpose.
    -I think the problem is the location of the sensor which is near the lens and expose to the direct light, if i have the sun in my back (no hits the sensor) the exposure is correct!! what a mess..
    -Also the lens is useless in f2.8 and f4 with strong softness in the left side..(any way that is not so problem since i never use so open aperture because its problem to focus properly only with scale on lens..).
    -Any one have the same experience?
    -Thank you.

  2. #2

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    Are you using a lens hood. These cameras really need the hood when shooting towards the sun. I had a ML that exhibited the same issue and knew anotehr with an ML with the same thing. The dealer where I got the Minox advised me of this when I bought it. There is almost no hood on the lens. As for the softness, I suspect the front element needs to be adjusted. The lense is a good design and sharp but the front element is a might fragile as it turns for focusing. I've seen a few where the front element would just turn 360 drgrees. It is held on with tiny set screws from memory. A tech should be able to reset the front and lock it down.

    The camera is great but, does require a bit of light handed use. It is more rugged than it feels but will not take a beating and keep on ticking like bigger brothers.

  3. #3
    vpwphoto's Avatar
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    GT is manual or can be used as a manual??? If so ignore the meter and use it that way.

    I ignore the meter in my F100, D700, D300 and my Hasselblad never had a meter. Cheers.

  4. #4

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    No, it is programmed. The ML does have an exposure lock than none of the others in the form has (unless you count the TDC as a separate model). You zone focus and set the speed and aperature is controled by the metering.

  5. #5
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    I've had a 35 GT for about twenty five years, I suggest you switch on the X2 backlight control on the top plate of the camera when shooting into the light and if you need a bigger correction reduce the ISO setting.
    Ben

  6. #6

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    The metering is generally pretty good - certainly good enough to shoot Velvia 50 and 100 and get good results. You can compensate if you need to with the 2x switch, or you if you need to compensate more or "go the other way", adjust the ISO dial. You can get lens hoods if you look, but another way to get an impromptu lens hood is to shoot upside down (the camera, not you!), or with a vertical shot, make sure the lens door is towards the sun.

    If the shots are soft on one side, I'd suggest there is a problem with the camera - the lens is very very good.

    The shutter mechanisms on them are prone to getting dirty and sticking, which will lead to blank frames or erratic exposures. This can be fixed with a CLA.

    For quite some time, the 35GT was the only camera I carried - I almost always left the SLR at home. It only got supplanted when I discovered MF folders.

  7. #7
    alexfoto's Avatar
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    Thank you all, that's a good idea to tern the camera upside down than to take a hood!! after all i have the camera in my pocket and its a problem always to reattach the hood.
    I think its problem of the front element because i unscrew them to clean and i can't put back in the same place, i lost the correct position in witch i have to screw again, and the meters is not so correct now i think

  8. #8
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexfoto View Post
    Thank you all, that's a good idea to tern the camera upside down than to take a hood!! after all i have the camera in my pocket and its a problem always to reattach the hood.
    I think its problem of the front element because i unscrew them to clean and i can't put back in the same place, i lost the correct position in witch i have to screw again, and the meters is not so correct now i think
    You omitted to say in you're original post you had dismantled the lens, if lenses are dismantled the need to be re- collimated on an optical bench to ensure the elements parallel to each other and centred to a datum line.
    Ben



 

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